While I covered most of our experiences in Portugal and Spain, there are some special places and experiences that just did not fit into my other blogs. So here I am doing a potpourri of unique and joyful events and places.
Our boat, used to move salt or seaweed.
Did you know there is a Venice-like city in Portugal? I didn’t. But near the coast is the city of Aveiro. A large channel was dug in the early 1800s opening the town to the sea and canals were cut to bring the water further in and for transportation as the city became an important part of the salt and seaweed industries. Although these two industries are no longer important, the canals have become a way for tourists to view the city. We had a wonderful time on our boat ride through the canals viewing the scenes from the boat. Later we had a chance to walk the streets that line the canal.
A sardine store.
In Portugal, sardines are an important food source and export industry. Wherever you go you can see sardines for sale and/or you can eat them. In Aveiro, the city with the canals, there was a lovely store just filled with different canned sardines for sale! Since I love sardines, I loved seeing this store. I had joy from this little bit of heaven for me. Later in our trip I purchased some to take home. I didn’t take a photo of that sardine store, but later on I found another one!
In Spain there is a large area of mussel farms in the Rias Baixus estuary. We had a lovely boat ride along the mussel farms and learned how the mussels grow and are harvested. Those who enjoy mussels (NOT me) had a delicious lunch of mussels and shrimp. I enjoyed watching the birds try to steal the food from the boat and from the others in my group trying to eat! And YES, of course they served us wine on the boat!!
Before we went into the estuary, we looked at it from above at a wonderful little park on a peninsula bordering the estuary. There we encountered the Tilting Rock and beyond it a wonderful lookout to view the area from above.
The town of Coimbra and the wonderful grounds of the university had more to offer us as we experienced Fado, the sad and emotional music of the students. Originally sung and performed with guitar by men dressed in black with capes and hats, now occasionally a woman also performs. We went to a performance by three men that was so interesting. Lots of longing and drama in the music.
After we left Coimbra we visited the seaside resort of Costa Nova. Wow, I fell in love with this resort. The beach is long and wonderful. But the fun part are all the brightly colored and striped homes along the beach. It was great fun to walk up and down the beach to admire them and have a cool drink, which we did. Many cities in Portugal and Spain had designs in the walkways which were made up of little squares of marble and granite. I liked this dophin.
We had other musical events as well. Did you know that the people of Northern Spain are the origins of Celtic music. In fact, the people fled north to the islands that are now Great Britain and are the original Celtic immigrants. We had the pleasure to see a show of their music, dance and singing. YES, they use bag pipes!! But my favorite was the women playing songs using a sort of tamberine/drum and then using spoons for a song. So much fun!
The first night in Santiago, we also got to see a troop of musicians performing across from the Church. It was entertaining and joyous. I think the pilgrims really enjoy their evenings after their long journey. There is music throughout the town.
On another day we visited the World Heritage Site of Las Medulas, which shows you how you can destroy mountains with water. The site of an ancient Roman gold mine, Las Medulas are the remains of mountains that were destroyed by the Romans who injected water into the mountains to mine for gold. It is the most unusual landscape. Honestly was totally unexpected and really worth seeing.
Unfortunately last year there was a major fire near the area, actually right up to it. So all around us were blackened trees and shrubs and the grass was gone. But in a way it was more interesting because we were able to see the ancient Roman paths cut through the area. And a beautiful new viewing site was built.
There were so many wonderful experiences and places to see and explore. Some times we felt we needed a vacation from our vacation. But in reality the memories these places and the poeple who we traveled with will stay with us. It was a most glorious and enjoyable experience.
People have been walking the Comino for over 1000 years. Most started for religious reasons. But now people walk for many reasons. Many still for religion, but for others it is a personal journey that relates to their own needs. They are searchers and pilgrims.
The are four main paths to the pilgrimage to the pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago to visit the cathedral where the relics of St. Anthony are interred in a silver casket. Camino Fraces, the French Way, is the most famous way and is 790 KM. The Original Way, from Oviedo and is 320 KM. Or one of the two Comino Portugues. One starts in Lisbon, 600 Km. Or you can go the Camino Portugues that starts in Porto and is only 240 KM.
Although we did not walk the 240 kilometers on our journey through Portugal and Spain, we did walk part of the Comino in many of the places we visited. Throughout our trip we would see the shell symbol of the Comino etched or painted on the ground; carved or placed on the side of a building; posted on signposts along the way. We cannot get credit for walking the 100 km minimum. To be recognized, but along the way, I am sure we walked about 20 kilometers of The Way.
The Comino is a World Heritage Site since 1993, and many walkers start their journey in April. We saw many pilgrims with the staff and shell adorned backpack along our way. They were intent on reaching their goal…the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
To talk about the Comino, I feel that you must talk about churches. But for me, I need to start at the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela, the supposed burial site of the apostle St. James.
The giant carved shell, symbol of the Comino outsdie the church.Inside the church from the back to the altar.Saint Antony’s relic.My secret photo from the behind the altar.This door only opens on special ocassions,.
We were told that when we reached the Praza do Obradoiro, the main square in front of the Cathedral, we needed to look around. If we were lucky, we would see a group of pilgrims arriving at this their final destination. I was lucky. I was looking in the right direction when a group four pilgrims arrived. The face of one woman in particular glowed. She started hugging her companions and crying with emotion. Yes, I took a photo. It was intense and lovely. They stopped in front of the cathedral and stared. I imagine were thinking about the effort and the journey to get there, not about walking in, seeing the church, the relic and getting their certificate.
Pilgrims arriving at the plaza.
But they would not be entering through the large green main doors. Those doors are closed now. You have to enter from a side door, because you cannot enter the Portico of Glory. Since its renovation 10 years ago, you must have special passes to see it. We were fortunate that Road Scholar obtained passes for our group. And it is magnificent.
In the movie, “The Way,” Martin Sheen’s character enters the cathedral and places his hand on the statue in an area that over time was worn away to resemble a hand. The area is still visible, but the 200 statues in the Portico have been renovated, cleaned, and stand to show their beauty. You cannot take photos, but it was so lovely I had to buy a little guide book about the Portico.
We then had to leave the Portico and go out of the cathedral to reenter another door to see the massive cathedral itself. To be honest it is a little sad for me. They removed all the classic statues and art from the original 11th and 12th century building to remake it in the ornate and gold gilded way of the usual European Baroque Cathedral. It was lovely. The ceiling was magnificent. But after seeing the Portico, I would have loved to see more of these amazing sculptures.
We went down into the area where St. Antony’s relic is kept and then walked up the other side, which leads you behind the alter and behind the statue of St. Anthony. On his back is the shell symbol of the pilgrimage. Many people hug the statue, not me. However, I did touch the shell. I also took two photos. Which I found out I was not supposed to do, but no one told us and the guard was very kind to this ‘little old lady’ and just said no more photos. But I did get a great photo looking out to the cathedral. And the giant incense burner.
Later in the day we went to the Cathedral’s Museum where we saw a replica of the incense burner and other objects. I was suprised to see a replica painting of the Lady of Guadalupe. We had seen the original at the Basilica in Mexico City. But I guess people go on pilgrimage to see her as well.
The giant incense holder.THis little statue reminded me of the Portico of Glory art.A replica of Our Lady Of Guadalupe. We saw the original in Mexico City.
We had a lovely three nights in Santiago staying in the lovely Virze de Cerca hotel. Opened in 1999, it was once an old home and is now a hotel with some rooms in the ancient building, and others in a newer building on the other side of a lovely garden courtyard. One day we went to the Mercado de Abastos and purchased wine, bread, sardines, fruit, cheese and meat to have our very own picnic at the hotels garden. Wonderful.
The entire city of Santiago has a spiritual feeling. You see the pilgrims everywhere. You can tell those who are just finishing and are exhausted from the ones who have been in the city for a day or two and are just enjoying the city’s joyful ambience. There are street performers singing, dancing, and entertaining everywhere. It was the highlight of the trip for me. But we had to get here, first visiting other churches and sites along the way, and then we had to continue on, seeing wonderful places and had great experiences as we journeyed to our final destination.
Starting from the beginning of our trip. We had our first encounter with The Way, with the sighting of our first shell symbol in Guimaraes. It was the first of many signs we saw along the way to Santiago.
In our journey we visited many churches besides the Cathedral de Santiago. I will only discuss the ones we actually entered.
The stair way to heaven behind the altar.The statue on the left for students is being restored.
The first was St. Michael’s Chapel of Coimbra University, which dates to the early 1600s. This chapel is devoted to education and light. “St. Michael was also the headquarters of the Brotherhood of Professors and Students under the invocation of Our Lady of Light,” according to the website about it. (See below.)
There is a stature to honor students and one to honor professors. Its main statute is to honor the Lady of Light. The statute to students was being restored, so we did not get to see it. But we got the sense of it. I could see students there the night before a big exam praying for the light of knowledge and the ability to remember all they memorized!!
Some of the walls were tiled with Portuguese tiles and the ceiling decoration was stunning. Like so many others, it was ‘elevated’ at some time to the baroque view of beauty. The best was the altar piece that included a depiction of the ‘stairway to heaven.’ If you made it all the way up you were blessed to go to heaven, but along the way you could lose your step and there was a demon waiting for you. Probably a good message for college students!!
The next day we visited a church site, but did not time to visit the inside. We made the pilgrimage to Bon Jesus de Monte. Claudia, our guide told us that most pilgrims to Bon Jesus now are those who love to exercise. They walk up and down the over 600 steps to the top of the hill and then back down.
The grounds and the views from the top of the hill are magnificent. And the outside of the Church is impressive. But we only had 20 minutes on the top, our visit there was mainly for the view.
We took the funicular, which is one of my favorite means of transportation. This was a very old, 100 years or so, well used funicular. Very unlike the one we took in Porto. But I enjoyed going both ways. Only nine of our group decided to walk down the many, many stairs. The rest of us waiting and took photos making believe we had walked!
The start of the walk down.People coming down the stairs.
Our next stop was Santiago, which was a highlight of the trip. Afterwards there was still more to see and symbols of the Comino that came from Spain and from France. So our path to The Way was heading away. However, as we now know, all roads lead to Santiago de Compostela.
The next church was in Leon. And it was a two-part visit. First was to the Catedral Santa Maria de Leon, or the Leon Cathedral. Our guide told me that Gaudi got the inspiration from this church and its high ceilings and multi-colors that come in from the 1800 square meters of stained glass window when he design the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia. I am not sure I see it. But he did live in Leon for a while, and you never know what went through his mind.
In any case, this cathedral is filled with wonderful stained glass, which is in the process of being renovated. It has taken years and will take many more as they take each window down and restore it and then put a panel on the outside to keep the windows safe from the elements.
There were several statues of religious figures in the church that I found especially appealing because they looked like real people.
While there were also visited the cathedral’s museum, specifical to see the Basilica de San Isidoro and the frescoes that adorn the Royal Pantheon. It is considered to be the “Sistine Chapel” of Spanish Romanesque style” according to information our guide gave us. It was amazing and surreal as we walked among the graves of Spanish royalty to view the ceilings.
I am glad we had the opportunity to visit the Pantheon. I have been to the Sistine Chapel and stood in the middle of the large room to stare up at the masterpiece depiction of God creating the world. The artwork here was not as ornate, but was well worth the time staring upwards.
I truly enjoyed my experience learning about The Way and the people who make the pilgrimage and the places they might visit on their journey of self discovery.
When we planned our Road Scholar trip to Portugal and Spain I was excited that we would be going to many World Heritage sites, including castles and palaces. Let’s be honest, I was born along with DisneyLand in 1955 and I grew up seeing the Disney castle every week on the Wonderful World of Disney. I remember so well the evil villain of Babes in Toyland singing, “My Castle in Spain.” For me this was going to be a highlight.
We saw a number of castles and palaces on our trip. Some were absolutely extravagant; others were just empty stone shells without much romance. I always knew that the tapestries were created to keep the rooms warmer. But until you walk through a large castle and see the size of the rooms, and the small size of fireplaces and heaters, do you realize that these places would be extremely cold in the winter. In fact, our guide told use that most people had to walk around wrapped in a blanket. BRRR
Even still, with this reality check, with knowing when I saw the Castle in Segovia that it had been heavily damaged by a fire and most of it was reconstruction, I could not help but be joyful. Why? Because was like seeing the real Disney Castle in Segovia, I knew my wish had come true. So instead of starting at the beginning of our trip and describing our experience in order, I must start with our second to last castle, Alcazar!
Throne Room
The Disneyworld Cinderella Castle’s towers and windows were based on the Alcazar of Segovia, Spain. Perhaps other elements come from other castles. But once you see the Alcazar, all you can do is hum, “When I Wish Upon A Star.” I did that for the entire time we toured the castle. I might have made my sister and husband crazy.
After walking uphill through narrow, ancient streets of Segovia we came upon the first sight of Alcazar, which has been a World Heritage Site since 1985. Some castles you cannot enter. But this one was not only renovated, it had furniture in some rooms to make you realize what it once looked like. It is also a museum.
Before I leave Segovia, I must say there is another important site to see there, the Roman Aqueduct that is about six stories high when goes above ground , while its underground route through the town is marked with different stones. It is an amazing feat of construction!!
Now that I have finished swooning over Alcazar, I will return to the beginning of our adventure and talk about the Palacio da Borsa, the original Board of Trade. Although it is not a castle, it is definitely a palace. Some of its rooms are absolutely stunning. I understand why it is an event space for conferences, conventions and if someone could afford it, what a place for a wedding!!
From the Grand Staircase, to the meeting rooms, – each one has its own character and special artwork, on the ceilings, the walls, the floors, the furniture- the building is elegant. The trial room with its ornate carved wooden furniture and beautiful art; the views; the room where Gabinete De Gustave Eifel worked when he was in Porto; The Hall of Countries.
Entrance to Golden room.Some of the detail.The ceilingThe floor
All of it fabulous. But nothing prepares you for the Golden Room. Many people oooh and Ahhh over the Amber Room in Catherine’s Palace near St. Petersburg. And that room is stunning, I admit when I saw it in 2018. But to be honest, the Golden Room with all its intricate carving and inlaid is something special. It made me think of the inlay at the Taj Mahal. The inlaid wooden floors were reminiscent of the ones I saw in the Hermitage in Russia, but actually more intricate. From floor to walls to ceiling to columns, there is not one spot untouched and plain. My pictures will not do it justice. But if you ever have a chance to go to Porto, you must visit the Golden Room. My brain was exhausted after seeing it.
The walls are sitting on granite boulders.
Thank goodness our next stop, the first castle on our tour, was less ornate but also fascinating in its own right: The Castelo de Guimaraes in Guimaraes. We did not actually go into this10th century edifice, we walked around the stone fortifications and massive walls. It is built on top of a granite mountain, and some of its walls are the granite stones. And they are enormous. They are everything a castle should look like from the outside. It was constructed by order of Countess Mumadona Dias to protect a monastery from Moorish invaders. Although the castle is not a world heritage site, it is a Portuguese National Monument since the late 1890s.
On the grounds of the castle are two more buildings. First the Church of Saint Michael. This little chapel was the place where Portuguese King Afonso Henriques was baptized in 1927. There is no furniture in the church as the entire floor are the tombstones of important people. In fact, you can only walk around the inside perimeter, so you do not cause damage to the engravings.
The Palace of the Dukes of Braganza is there as well. We only walked along the outside. It was renovated in the 1930s and served as the residence for the then President Antonio Salazar. Although part of it is open to the public, we did not go inside.
Although not a palace or a castle, the University of Coimbra, founded in 1290, definitely feels like one. I am not sure I would be able to actually go to classes there, especially in some of the older buildings. I would be too busy looking around.
Underground student prison.Our tour guide on the ‘toilet.’Room for presentations.Ceiling of Presentation Room.Part of the Courtyward and the view.
We were not allowed to take photos of the famous library. It is a stunning work of carved wood and bookcases filled with ancient tomes. It is still used by students and scholars, but the books must be ordered in advanced and not allowed to leave the campus.
The lecture room, where students present their PhD dissertations also makes you think of a castle great room. The ceiling is stunning as is the woodwork.
But I have to be honest the part that capture most of our attention was the fantastic view of the city and the river; watching the students take their graduation photos; and finally visiting the underground ‘dungeon’ that was a special prison for students who got into trouble. This is not your usual dungeon, because since the students were from the upper class, even when they got in trouble they did not suffer like the riff-raff. In fact, we were amazed that they actually had a two-seat stone toilet to use. They could spend anywhere from a day to several months here depending on their misbehavior.
Later photo shows me between the window openings.
Next stop the monstrous and magnificent Roman Walls of Lugo. We walked around them from the outside. And then we walked on the walls in two different places. Once the walls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, also had multiple towers surrounding the city. Now just vestiges of the towers remain.
Along the wall, people stroll.Part of the tower that still exists.House built into the wall with an entrance.
Walking along the walls give you a great view of both the old and new cities, but also make you aware of how technologically advanced the Romans were as these walls have lasted centuries. Over time, some people had the opportunity to build their homes right into the wall and have the walls paths as their backyard. People can no longer do this, but those who have this cannot be destroyed.
Our final Palace was La Granja, or Real Sitio de San Ildefonso, was the summer home of the Spanish kings. It was walking distance to our hotel, the Parador De La Granja. Our hotel was once part of the Palace grounds and was the home of two children and their attendants.
This is made in France with porcelain flowers.These weigh almost 200 pounds each
The Palace is enormous, we only got to see about ¼ of the total rooms, just walking through the open rooms on the bottom floor. Through the windows we could see some of the fantastic gardens. Unfortunately, they were closed because that evening some of the fountains were going to be opened. But from what I could see these gardens are much like the ones in Russia at the Peterhof Palace.
The chandeliers and ceilings in this palace were stunning. The Royal Glass company is in San Ildefonso, so many of them were made in the town for the Palace. For this palace I will just show you some of these fantastic and some fanciful chandeliers. To be honest after going through these rooms I became somewhat overwhelmed. But it was definitely a great final stop on our tour.
Our trip to Spain and Portugal with Road Scholar was entitled, “Beyond the Vineyards, but in reality, it should have been called In the Vineyards, Drinking your way through Portugal and Spain.
I learn much about white wines, red wines, port, sweet sherry, sweet vermouth. I drank more wine in two weeks than I usually drink in a year. I am not exaggerating! I discovered that my wine pallet was immature. I like table wines much more than the expensive bold flavored wines. I am ok with that. I also learned that every lunch and dinner in the Iberian Peninsula comes with wine and more wine. I learned to turn my red wine goblet upside down and to put my hand over the top of my white wine glass after the second refill and shake my head saying “por favor, no mas.”
I learn how different barrels and/or stainless-steel containers change the taste of wine and that all vineyards do not grow their grape vines the same way. I thought all wine vines grew about waist high off the ground. I am so wrong: some grow overhead, others close to the ground. I learned that weather and rain impact how wine vines grow. I learned that roses are planted in vineyards not for beauty, but because if a rose bush gets a disease, it indicates that the vineyard could have a disease as well. Olive trees are planted for a similar reason. Also, and important, is that there are the most lovely peacocks at almost every winery. We were told that they indicate great wealth. So having peacocks on the grounds was popular.
I found out there is much wine tourism in the Iberian Peninsula. Here is a summary of the wine tour aspect of our lovely and exhaustive program. Mayra, our main tour guide told us that before the pleasure of wine tasting was the hard work of learning about the vineyard. To be honest that was my favorite part, because many of these vineyards were just lovely.
Fermentation building.Original wine bottles.
Quinta de Aveleda was our first vineyard on the way to Guimaraes. I have written about Quinta de Aveleda in an earlier post because of its absolutely stunning acres upon acres of gardens. I will not write about them again, but honestly, they are worth seeing. (See link below.)
We were allowed into the barrel room (fermentation) to see and smell where the wine ferments and learn about the process. In this winery, and its centuries old building, we could really smell the fermentation. We saw a display of some of its original bottles. And had the opportunity to taste both a red and a white wine. I will say that the Casal Garcia, Vinho Verde, turned out to be my favorite wine of the entire trip. These wines are not fermented for long, so they are considered ‘green’ or young wines.
The machine to stamp the name of the winery.
Our next stop was to find out the overall history of wine making in the Douro River area at the Museo del Douro tour in Regua. Marco was our very enthusiastic and wonderful museum docent. We had a great, detailed overview of the start to finish of wine making in the Douro area, starting with the Romans and the priests who came later. Wine making and drinking were very popular.
I was amazed that people would carry 80 pounds of grapes on their shoulders in heavy wooden baskets during the picking season. I learned how they bottled the wine, made the labels and branded the crates. People do not become vintners overnight. There is training and a hierarchy of influence. Going to this museum gave us a foundation for each of the rest of the wine related stops we visited.
After our tour, we were also treated to a glass of wine and/or lemonade. It was a delicious end to a great museum visit. (Always a glass of wine, but in many stops they had non-alcoholic drinks for those who do not imbibe alcohol.)
After we left the museum, we traveled to another vineyard. Along the way, we learned that the vineyards themselves are a World Heritage Site. These terraced vineyards were terraced by hand and then separated by the stones that the farmers dug up. Today, those that have decayed over time, cannot be torn down because they are protected by the World Heritage designation.
Some of the vineyards were abandoned when Phylloxera, a tiny insect, destroyed most of the vineyards in Europe. The only solution was to bring in roots from US vineyards, which were immune to the insect, and graft European grape vines on to them. The phylloxera blight almost destroyed the wine making business in Europe.
When we arrived at Quinta Da Pacheca we learned more about the wine tourism business. At this vineyard, they still crush the grapes by stomping on them. They allow paying tourists to come and participate in the process. But they told us, the tourists only last for about 30 minutes of stomping, while the people who live there often stomp for hours. I am exhausted thinking about it after seeing the giant stone basins when the stomping takes place.
When we toured its fermentation room, I was amazed at the giant barrels that were once used to store the grape juice that turned into wine. These are no longer used in the wine making, but are there for people to view. They are enormous.
Even bigger are the one designed to cater to the wine tourism. Quinta Da Pacheca offers its tourist a chance to stay in a room made from a giant barrel. But these were made specifically for living.
Of course, there was wine to taste and a peacock to admire.
The entrance to the wine cellars.Tile above the door of the wine tasting roomPart of our lunch.Three wines here, red, rose and white.
Our next vineyard Adegas de Casa de Santar or Casa Santar located in the Dao region of Portugal. We had a tour of part the large vineyards, the granite wine cellar with its wonderful entrance, the wine tasting room, a food demonstration and then finally a meal and a wine tasting.
I loved the two-century old building where the winery was located. The tasting room, where the original owner would taste the wines, was something special, especially the tiled scenes about the windows and doors. The chef did a demonstration of cooking the food we would be eating for lunch. We also learned about the three wines we would be tasting: Casa de Santar Reserva Red, Casa De Santar Colheita White and Casa de Santar Reserve Rose.
We spent a few days in Santiago de Compostela, which will be a separate blog. That doesn’t mean we did not drink wine…we did some tasting on our own. But we did not go to a winery for two days. When we did, it was time to taste Spanish Galician wine and food.
We went to Bodegas Del Palacio de Fefinaneto to see the winery. I must say I was very confused at this winery. There is this castle-like structure at the end of road. When you walk into a large courtyard. Then there is another street with restaurants along the side. I thought the street was part of the winery. But no, that was a part of the small town that surrounds the winery.
Here we saw a totally different way of growing wine. Because of the water and the climate, here the vines grow up high on pagodas, with the grapes hanging down. The juice is first put into stainless steel drums to ferment and then put into the barrels.
After our wine tasting, we had some time to walk down that little street and get a treat. For me it was a delicious coconut macaroon and ice tea. I was quite happy!!
Our final winery was the most intense!! Dehesa de los Canonigos offered us tasting and light lunch in the “Golden Mile,” of the Spanish Riveria Region, the Spanish Duero River. We got a true education there. The Sommelier was fantastic and gave us so much information. It was so interesting, my husband who uses hearing aids, had his phone save what she was saying.
This was the youngest of the wineries. It was established in 1989 by Luis and Mariluz Sanz. But the house and the vineyards are much older. Constructed in the 19th century, the main house was designed by a famous architect and is designed in the Basque country style. For many years they provided the grapes to another well-known winery before they started making their own wine.
What you notice right away is that the grapes and vines are extremely close to the ground. Once again, this is because of the weather and altitude. It is 750 meters above sea level, so the temperature varies from day to night. It gets very hot here in the summer, so the grapes stay close to the ground to get as much moisture as possible. Our guide spent much time explaining how the vines rest in the winter and wake up when it is 10 degrees Celsius. I was amazed to learn about weeping vines during the spring pruning. Vines can weep, or release sap for up to two weeks and up to five liters a week. This just stuck with me.
At this vineyard they use two different types of barrels: white oak from France and from the USA. We got to taste two different wines. One that spends 15 months in American oak, Los Banonigos; and one that spends 24 months in French Oak, Soleo Deo.
I wish I could tell you everything she taught us about wine. But that would be three more blogs! So I will end this saying that I learned more about wine during this trip then I could imagine. There were many on our tour who already had a great appreciation and knowledge of wine making. I was not one of them. But I so much more appreciate the wine I drink and the skill and attention to detail that makes it delicious.
I really enjoyed our time in Leon. Besides my interest in the bits of Jewish history that still remained, I was also intrigued to learn that a building designed by Antoni Gaudi was there are well.
My two trips to Barcelona have made me a Gaudi fan. While there, I made a point of visiting all of the Gaudi sites that are open to the public. To have another Gaudi site to see in Leon was an unexpected joy.
The side turret/towerThe sculpture of George and the dragon.
Unlike Casa Batllo, Casa Vincens or Casa Mila, from the outside Casa Botines seems simple and calm. Situated on San Marcelo Square, it is a large rectangle building whose main eccentrics are noticeable in the four corner turrets and towers, the notable wrought iron fence and the sculpture of Saint George and the Dragon above the front door. (Which is why it is also known as the Dragon House.) Gaudi designed the sculpture, while Lorenzo Matamala actually carved it.
I loved the gate and fence. It seemed to reflect the idea of a dragon protecting the house in my mind.
The side gate.
Inside the house is also much simpler than other Gaudi creations. This makes sense as it is one of Gaudi’s earlier works. Cassa Batllo was built in 1902-4 and Park Quell from 1900 – 1914. Cas Botines was built decade earlier, in the 1890s, so perhaps Gaudi had not yet reached the apex of his most creative and inspired and colorful visions. Thus the Casa Botines seems a bit conservative after seeing his other works. Many are filled with vibrant colors and art. Whereas Casa Botines is mainly defined by the woodwork and staircase. Although there are stained class windows and colored glass in the house.
The woodwork is beautiful as in all Gaudi’s homes. The window frames, doorways, floors and staircases are stunning. I love the windows in the turrets and also the multi-paned window that frame the outdoor scenes. I can imagine living there and enjoying the warmth of the wood. However, Casas Botines was not actually built as a home, rather as the headquarters for a business.
My favorite, the heart chair.
Currently, Casa Botines is a museum about Gaudi. The rooms have some furniture that he created, including a heart chair, which I loved. There is much information about the building of the Casa Botines and about Gaudi. But there are also some items that make no sense to me as to why they are there. Like the dentist’s office set up in one of the rooms. But I think that is because a dentist used to live there.
Outside the house, in the courtyard, sits a statue of Gaudi sitting on a bench and sketching. I imagine him looking at the space and trying to plan what he would build there. I always wondered how he came up with his fantastical ideas. Of course they always began with a sketch.
Stained glass in Casa Botines.Inside the cathedral in Leon. Did it inspire Gaudi?
On a side note, according to our tour guide, Gaudi’s visits to the cathedral in Leon, with its many stain glass windows, vibrant colors and extremely high ceilings, was inspiration for his masterpiece, the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Perhaps, a bit. But actually they are very different.
You can learn about my previous experiences with Gaudi in these two blogs:
Whenever I travel to the Iberian Peninsula, I am intrigued and drawn to any information I can gather about where the Jewish communities lived before the forced conversions and the expulsions. I am a direct descendant of these Jews. I imagine my ancestors walking the streets, attending the synagogues, traveling between towns and living their lives in joy before it was all destroyed.
For over two weeks we visited many cities and towns in Portugal and Spain. We saw streets that once were the homes of Jewish communities. We saw the evidence of Judaism left behind in street names and buildings.
We started our trip in Porto, where once a large Jewish community existed. We took a food tour while there, visiting the Market, the oldest restaurant and several pastry shops. At the last one, our guide brought us out macaroons, saying that this was a treat the Jews ate during Passover. A treat we still eat. She said that we were eating it here because this was the area where the Jewish people once lived. And she pointed us to the street where the synagogue once stood. When the tour ended, we returned.
There is not much left of the Jewish presence in what was the Judiaria Nova do Olival. But we walked Rua De S. Bento Da Vitoria, the street where the community once lived viewing the site of the destroyed synagogue. Where it once stood is a public building that was originally a monastery. There are two signs, one next to the building and one on the building commenting on the Jewish community that used to live. It is currently under renovation, thus the plaque on the wall was difficult to read, so the photo I am showing came from the internet. It says:
“In perpeturam memoriam…In memory of all Portuguese Jews who, by decree of 1496, were given by God the choice between forced conversion or death. May their blood never be forgotten. May the blessed memory be restored to all those – the shepherds and the sheep – who for five centuries kept alive and ever present the word of the prophet Moses on Mount Horeb: the bush burned with fire, yet the bush was not consumed. Their burning embers were not destroyed by the flames – nor by those who sought to destroy them through the most terrible tortures – forcing them to renounce their sublime faith at the fount of life: For the Just man lives by his faith.”
On Day 7 we went to Coimbra, the site of the Coimbra University and Library. It was a truly lovely site up on a mountain, where you could see the river below. Of course, a college town would have had a Jewish population. In fact, the street where the Jews lived was directly across from the main church. Rua Dos Coutinhos, an ancient narrow street. No sign of any Jewish life now.
Santiago Jerusalem Street
In Santiago de Compostela, the city that is saturated with spirituality as it is the end of the pilgrimage at the Cathedral of the Portical of Glory, we saw Ruela de Xerusalem, Jerusalem Street. Our guide told us it is believed this was the street for the Jewish population.
Puerta Moneda. The Coin Gate, where the Jewish People lived, the money lenders in Leon,The first marker we saw put up by the Network of Jewish Quarters in Spain.The full house with the plaque.The Jewish area of Leon. Here is one of the symbols embedded in the ground to show the entrance to the Jewish quarter.
In Leon, we saw much more signs of Jewish life. We entered what was once a walled city through a street where there was once a gate, the Puerta Moneda, or the Coin Gate. Immediately we guessed it was the entrance to the Jewish area where the money lenders lived.
Our guide pointed out a long, narrow street that once was filled with vibrant Jewish life, as well as the square where they held a market. In was in Leon that we first saw the markers placed by the Red de Judarias de Espana (Network of Jewish Quarters in Spain.) Their symbol includes the Hebrew letters that spell out Sefarad and mark important Jewish sites.
The first one we saw was on a plaque on Calle De Juan De Arge marking the home of a Jewish family that lived there from 1370 until 1481. We saw another marker later on that was embedded in the ground.
Sergovia last remaining synagogue. Now a churchThe symbol embedded in front of the former synagogue.
Finally Segovia, where we visited the only surviving synagogue in all the towns we visited. Once a synagogue, now a church, this synagogue used to be one of five that served the large Jewish community of Segovia, where about a third of the town was Jewish. It was the MAIN Synagogue, La Sinagoga Mayor, located in the center of the Jewish area.
When you first look at it, it seems to be a small building. I wondered how it could be the MAIN synagogue. But it is a false front. When it was opened later in the day, my sister and I entered the courtyard and explored the building. There are still indications of its use as a synagogue. It is an open room where the bima would have been in the center. And there is a women’s balcony above, with screens so that the men could not see them, but they could see what was happening below. It remained a synagogue until 1419. In 1899 the Synagogue/Church was damaged by a fire. It was restored in 1902 and remains open today.
The visit to this synagogue was a highlight for my Jewish journey. We are descendants of Iberian Jews who left Spain for Portugal, then left Portugal for Amsterdam, then made the mistake of leaving Amsterdam for Galicia in Austria. But then even in Amsterdam the Jews were slaughtered by the Nazis.
The one final sign of Jewish life in Spain startled me. Although Portugal had a Jewish community before WW2. In fact, Jewish people started returning to Portugal in the 1800s. But Spain was a different story. It wasn’t until 1869 that the new Spanish Constitution allowed Jewish people to settle in Spain. But there were not many. However, it is believed that about 15,000 Jews survived by escaping to Spain.
But the “Stolperstein,” stumble stone, I found tells a different story. Fermin Cristobal Lopez died in Dachau. Born in 1894, he was exiled from France, and Deported from Sergovia on the Ghost Train in 1944. I do not know if Fermin was a Jew or a political prisoner. But I do know he died in Dachau.
In these times of Jew hatred, for me it is important to know where we once lived and how we were forced to find new homes and new places for sanctuary. In Spain it was very obvious that the status of Jews is precarious. In every city in Spain we visited, except Sergovia, there were giant banners calling supporting the Palestinians. But nothing to recognize what the Israelis and Jews have suffered.
I asked our tour guide if she felt the Jewish people of Spain were safe. She differentiated between Israelis and Jews. Saying the government and people were angry at the Israeli government. But she believed Jewish people in Spain were safe. I guess we shall see.
In Portugal it was different. No Palestinian Flags. No feelings of queasiness as I walked down the streets. For me, as a Jewish person, I will not soon return to visit Spain.
When my husband and I booked our latest Road Scholar trip, “Beyond the Vineyards, Sampling Northern Portugal and Spain,” he started telling people that he was going to drink his way through Portugal and Spain. And he did.
Our tour included visits to six wineries as well as seven or more UNESCO world heritage sites. We learned more about Port, Sweet Vermouth, red wines and white wines, than I anticipated. And along the way we had to taste all the differences.
At every winery we had a tour of the vineyards, the fermentation areas, and the tasting rooms. Some of the wineries were located in estates that had been in families for generations. One winery’s gardens were magnificent.
In honor of these beautiful gardens, I plan to start off my blogs about our trip to Portugal and Spain focusing on the beautiful gardens we visited in Portugal.
The ArenaView of the Douro River from an overlook.My favorite photo. Gradens, Douro River and Porto.All the peacocks and peahens.The small chapel.
Our first garden was at the site of the original Crystal Palace. Although the Palace no longer exists, the lovely gardens do. The Galeria Municipal Do Porto Gardens are enchanting not just because of the lovely plants, but also the lovely peacocks and peahens who roam the park. I have never seen so many in one place before!
(I have to add here that almost every winery had peacocks. We asked why, the answer was that peacocks represented wealth. So having them indicated that the winery and the family were doing well!)
In the Crystal Palace gardens, the azaleas and camelias were in the best blooms. They were so large and stunning. There were trees from other countries. Statues along multiple walkways that went to lower levels in the garden. Formal gardens that overlooked the Douro River. The many overlooks gave you a chance to view Porto from a different perspective.
Two buildings are on the site. The official circular arena for the Porto, which stands where the original Crystal Palace once stood, as well as the Capela do Rei Carlos Alberto. A small chapel that is still in use.
Along the treetop walk.The art deco villa that was Serralves’ home.The formal gardens in front of the villa.
The second garden was on the grounds of the Fundacao De Serralves, the Contemporary Art Museum. The museum grounds includes the Serralves’ art deco villa and the park including many gardens and sculptures. We saw the outside of the villa and walked only two of the parks. The formal front and then the treetop walk. I wish we had even more time. To be honest I spent all my time in the gardens and never entered the museum!!
Where the goats live.A gate to the gardens.The mansion from the 16th century.One of the fountains. This one was by a large open area for parties.The honeymoon house.
The third and most stunning of the gardens was at the estate and winery the Quinta de Aveleda! This property has been owned by the same family since the 16th century. They have had hundreds of years to create the most beautiful gardens. Included in the gardens are three small houses, including one that was used by family members on their honeymoons. There is also a small area for a family of goats to live, which were put in the garden for the enjoyment of the children. You cannot visit the estate’s lovely mansion, except to view it from a distance, as it is still used by the family.
I wish everyone could see these gardens in person, as photos can only capture some of the essence of these fantastic garden sites.
Portland, Oregon, is home to three of the most beautiful gardens I have visited!
China Town and the Lan Su Chinese Garden is located just off the Willamette River near the Steel Bridge. It was a mile walk from our hotel. So we decided to walk over the Steel Bridge in order to see it up close.
Opened for use in 1912, the Steel Bridge (yes, it is made of steel) has a central area that is a vertical lift, which moves the two-deck surface upwards so that high ships can sail under it. It is an amazing contraption to see. Since the bridge has a Kansas City connection – Waddel & Harrington, who designed it were a Kansas City firm – I felt it was something we had to experience. Although the lower deck is built for pedestrians, we did not know that when we walked across, so we took the top deck. At times, I noted that the railings along the deck were quite low, so I recommend the lower deck for walking.
The entrance to Lan Su.Beautiful woodwork.the teahouse.Inventive ways to view gardens.The amazing stone inlaid patios.
At the end of the bridge, it was a short walk to the Lan Su Chinese Garden. This delightful oasis was built in 1999 by 65 artisans who came from China and opened to the public in 2000. There is a short movie that explains how it was built. I was fascinated by the inlaid rock areas. I even asked the guide if we were allowed to walk on it, it was so beautiful
The gardens and the lake create lovely view, but so is the wonderful craftmanship of the buildings and the woodwork. You are able to walk into all the buildings and admire them. The tea house serves a variety of teas and pastry. We had to stop in there for a snack and enjoyed to views of the gardens.
When walking through the gardens, I did not think of the city around us, instead I felt like I was encapsulated in a hidden jewel.
China Town Gate.
Afterwards we walked to the Golden Horse restaurant for a lunch. It seemed right that we have Chinese food after visiting the garden.
The next day we continued our Asian garden experiences with a visit to the Portland Japanese Gardens in Washington Park. WOW! If Lan Su is an encapsulated oasis within the city, the 12-acre Japanese Gardens is a paradise!
A part of Washington Park since 1962, this peaceful setting was built to bring healing to the city after World War 2. I believe it did. You cannot walk through these gardens and not appreciate the culture that produce it.
Like Lan Su, there are buildings on the grounds including a Japanese Tea House. Since it is a much larger garden, there is a learning Center, a Café, a more. But for me it was the gardens that drew my admiration.
You start at the bottom of a hill after paying at the Welcome Center, meandering upwards to antique gate and continuing up. Looking back at the views of the city as you climb the foliage is really breathtaking. At the top you enter the Nezu Gate by the Japanese Arts Learning Center, where you can visit the Bonsai Garden. From there, you take the paths around the garden settings with koi ponds, waterfalls, raked sands and more. Every garden has resting spots where you can sit quietly and enjoy the views and the peace and serenity.
I think if I lived in Portland I would go to the Japanese Gardens weekly to ease my anxieties.
My favorite Rose.
Because we were in Washington Park, after we finished our time at the Japanese Garden, we did walk over to the International Rose Test Garden. Established in 1917, this garden has over 4 acres of magnificent roses. I was here several years ago when I first visited Portland. But we had to stop in to see the beauty of this garden as well. There are always amazing roses during the blooming season. One peach-colored rose caught my eye, its petals resembled crepe paper.
And a wonderous mansion too!
Sewing Room.Intercom.Mrs. Pittock.
Since we were in Washington Park, we visited one more spot close to Washington Park, the exquisite Pittock Mansion. The home of the owner of the Portland Oregonian, the mansion took two years to build, with a move in date of 1914. Overlooking the city and the river, it has magnificent views and lovely gardens as well. But it is the house that is the main attraction.
It was an enormous laundry!Shower with many streams of water.Shower in one of the bathtubs.Sitz bath!Freezers
The Pittock Mansion has many innovations for a house of its time. The abundant bathrooms had all the ‘modern conveniences” with both tubs and showers; an intercom system: extensive laundry room and an amazing cold room. The door was extra insulated and the room contained cold storage. Mr. Pittock wanted the best and the most up-to-date home.
After the family moved out in 1958, the house was abandoned. Eventually the city purchased it and restored it and opened it to the public in 1965. I am sure the upkeep is still tremendous!
Today it is a great venue for weddings and other events. I had to pose on the grand staircase. It was a moment for me to imagine living there. Which I never could, but really some spots just call out for a photo. The Pittock Mansion is another must see site in Portland.
My week in Yellowstone made me aware of the importance of signs. Especially the cautionary ones along the paths, in front of some of the park’s wonders and when entering certain area of the Park. People really need to pay attention to what is around them. (See blog below.)
Every year people get injured, and many times it is because they do not pay attention to the signs. Bison injuries are usually the fault of the visitor. Close encounters with wild animals is often a bad decision. Getting a selfie with a bison is not a good idea. Stay away from the bison. They do not want you wandering in their way. A head nudge from a bison could send you flying, if not worse.
Often when we saw wild animals close to the road or nearby, there would be a park ranger also there directing traffic or blocking off the area close to the animals. At Mammoth Falls Terraces, a bull elk and his harem were hanging out on the terraces. So the walkway was closed for our safety and the animals. It might have been great to get better photos, which people with better cameras could. But in reality, we need to stay away from them and respect their space.
Hot Springs are very hot and the land around them is very fragile. Do not walk on areas that specifically say, “do not walk here.” But every so often someone does. And unfortunately, they pay the price. Geysers erupt, which is why they are surrounded by fences or barricades. Don’t climb over.
The warning signs are everywhere, and some are very specific!
Be careful when you bring young children and dogs into the park, especially around Old Faithful. The sign above tells it all. In 1970, a 9-year-old boy died after he fell into Crested Pool. Horrifying. Now there is a permanent sign warning people of the danger. Another sign warns guests specifically not to bring dogs into the basin. If they get off their leash and run into the off-limits area, they could be killed. But since the sign is there, I think we can assume that some people just do not believe it. And their pet pays the price.
I am posting some of the many signs that we saw along our travels in Yellowstone so people realize that what they are seeing and enjoying must also be respected. I am happy to say that no one in our group took any risks or defied the signs and warnings. Yellowstone is a beautiful, exciting and awe-inspiring adventure. Seeing the sights and the animals and birds is exciting. But like any adventure, you have to pay attention to your surroundings and respect the animals and the warnings.
Eight years ago, my husband and I visited Yellowstone National Park for one day. We, along with eight others, toured the park for about 12 hours. It was exhausting. But after that experienced I vowed to go back and spend at least two nights in the park. (See blog below.). I exceeded my desires, as we spent four nights and five days exploring Yellowstone National Park on a Road Scholar educational adventure. Along with 21 others we learned so much more about the Park and its wonderous sights, sounds, smells, wildlife and natural beauty.
Everyone talks about the geysers of Yellowstone. The one most people see exploding upwards is Old Faithful, one of dozens of geysers that are part of the Geyser Basins, along with fumaroles (steam vents) and very hot springs and other hydrothermal features. The first time I saw this area we only had time to see Old Faithful expel its heated waters and steam and eat lunch at the Old Faithful Inn, an experience in itself. We could see other geysers in the distance erupting water and steam. But we did not have the time to walk around and explore. This trip we had more than enough time.
We spent two nights at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, one of three hotels that are in the geyser basin area. The Snow Lodge is the only one that is open throughout the winter, as it has heat and is built for the cold weather. The Old Faithful Inn and the Old Faithful Lodge, two historic buildings from the early days of the Park, are only open until late October. The Visitor’s Center and the Tribal Culture Lodge, as well as the General Store were open when we visited.
Map of the geyser basins
Since we had lots of time to explore while at Old Faithful, I visited the Visitor Center and spent time reading the information and watching the two movies. I also checked out the beautiful historic hotels, Old Faithful Inn and Old Faithful Lodge. At the Tribal Culture Center I watched two native American artists work, one carving an arrowhead, while the other worked on beading. There was lots of opportunity to shop in the general store, the Visitor Center and the Tribal Culture Center. We enjoyed that as well. It was a wonderful day of sightseeing, learning and relaxing.
Old Faithful erupting.Bacteria growing.It flushes the water down.Heart Spring
Over our 40 hours in the Old Faithful area, I saw Old Faithful explode about 8 times, from all different directions. Each time its steam and water shot up in slightly different ways. It really is an amazing sight. But what is also amazing was our guided walk around the lower basin and seeing all the other geysers and their eruptions. In some places there are three geysers right next to each other, like the Lionesses. When one goes off it can either trigger another one to erupt, or actually draw water away from one that is already erupting. The Anemone Geyser doesn’t really erupt at all, instead it slowly fills a basin with hot steamy water then suddenly all the water flushes downward like a whirlpool or a flushing toilet.
There are lovely hot springs to look at, like the Heart Spring, that looks just like a heart. But the temperature in these springs often rise to over 160 degrees, enough to cook anything that falls in.
The land around these features is often brittle and baked. You see the silicon deposits around them and the bacteria growing in the warm moisture. The geyser basins are just one of the impressive sights of Yellowstone.
Mountain of obsidian volcanic glass.Holding obsidian.Lunch at this lovely creek.
Once we left the geyser basins, there were so much more to see. We visited a mountain entirely composed of obsidian, the black glass made from an ancient volcanic eruption. This mountain is sacred to the native tribes that once inhabited the park. They used it to make arrowheads and knives. You are not allowed to take any obsidian out of the park. But you can hold this cold, sharp glass.
Every day we ate a sack lunch in the park. The day we went to the hill of obsidian, we ate lunch at this lovely creek and picnic area. I did not want to leave!
Roaring MountainA geyser along the lake.
Roaring Mountain, is unusual smoking mountain, where fumarole vents have killed off the trees and caused the mountain to look like something out of a Lord of the Rings movie.
The West Thumb part of Yellowstone Lake, where geysers can be seen right on the edge of the lake and also bubbling up in the lake. And I cannot forget the bubbling mudpots where hots springs and bacteria cause the mud to actually boil. Talking of mudpots, we also visited Fountain Paint Pots where you can see hot springs, geysers, mudpots and fumaroles all within a short circular walk. While there we saw many small geysers erupt. It was a good introduction to our later experience at the two geyser basins near Old Faithful.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River with its canyon walls of many colors and its tremendous waterfalls, the Upper Falls and the Lower Falls, are thunderous and stunning. But also along the walls of the canyon you can see the steam from the vents rising as the heat bakes the canyon walls and helps to destroy them.
What surprised me is that the bison, elk and other animals will walk along the heated ground, and sometimes even lie down on it for warmth. We saw this at Mammoth Falls where a bull elk and his harem decided to hang out on the day we were there.
Just mentioning Mammoth Falls Hot Springs brings back the vision of the water cascading down these travertine terraces that look manmade, but they are not. Photos cannot capture the sparkling essence of these terraces.
Bison getting ready to cross the road.A pronghorn running away from us.The park ranger closed this path because the elk are resting on mammoth falls.
Of course I have not mentioned the wildlife. Black bears, grizzly bears, Wolf packs, Trumpeter swans, Clark nutcrackers, elk, moose, mountain goats, pronghorn (which are not deer!), bison – lots of bison, and so much more to see and experience from a distance. In fact the bison are not buffalo, but people still refer to them that way. And pronghorns are not antelope, but people still refer to them that way. As our guide, Shauna, commented, it is impossible to change the song from “Where the buffalos roam, and the deer and the antelope play; to where the bison roam, and the deer and the pronghorn play.”
Every spot we visited in Yellowstone is amazing. When you think that you are walking in the middle of a giant volcanic caldera, it really changes your view of the world.. These objects that nature has created here is inspiring. You realize that we, humans, are just tiny specks in the world, because in reality, nature is in control. I understand how the First Peoples of the Northern Hemisphere and the early explorers who walked these lands were stunned. This was sacred land to the First People and should be sacred lands to us.
I am so glad that in 1872 President Ulysess S. Grant declared it the first National Park. Yellowstone is not only a national treasure. It is a world treasure.
I think everyone should come here to visit and learn. Having a guide lead us on this journey made it so much more meaningful. I have to thank Shauna, our guide; Bryan, our fearless bus driver; and Louis, our director of all (food, keys, directions, etc.); and Road Scholar. We will never forget this experience.
zicharonot 