After my husband and I visited the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon about an hour from Mexico City, I became enamored about learning more about Mayan culture and its ruins. (See blog below.)
So in late 2022, when the “MAYA: The Exhibition” came to Union Station in Kansas City, I knew I had to go and learn more! I was absolutely intrigued by the civilization and even more astounded that many people of Mayan descent still live in Central America and Mexico. The exhibit did a great job of expanding on what I learned in Mexico in the fall of 2021.
It piqued my interest to learn more. Thus, it was not surprising to my husband that when we went on a cruise that went to Belize and Cozumel that I wanted us to go on excursions which continued the focus on this new found interest.
Our first excursion was to Altun Ha, a Mayan site that was probably established in the year 900 BCE. I found this site interesting for several reasons. First many of the ruins are still covered by dirt and grass. It has not been totally excavated. It made it more obvious as to why people did not realize what these sites were at first. Altun Ha has a large plaza area surrounded with pyramids and residential areas. It is much smaller and not as interesting as the pyramid of the Sun and Moon in Mexico, but still worth visiting to see the changes that occurred over the centuries.
Our tour guide spent considerable time explaining why some of it was not excavated. It seems that they only had a certain about of funds, so they decided not to excavate what would have been the residential area and focus on the temples. Also interesting about this site is that it has no official name. Usually the archeologists find some sort of glyph with the name. Altun Ha does not have one, so it was named for the town that is nearby. In fact, it was the towns people who discovered the site and reported it.
They found a large number of jade pieces at this site, including one of the largest jade heads ever found. There is a reproduction of it in the small museum at the site.
The other interesting fact is that they let you walk/climb up on the pyramids here. My husband and I did climb up one. But did not attempt the other one. Going up was relatively fine, but going down was truly difficult. There are no handrails and the steps are rather steep and uneven. When we were in Mexico there were times that we sat to go down the steep steps between sections. But this was rougher and more difficult. It was an experience I am glad we did. But would not do it again.
I enjoyed our time there, even though the heat was almost oppressive. And this was in mid-January. Take lots of water and a hat if you go!
The next stop was in Cozumel and the San Gervasio Mayan Ruins. This was a much more spectacular site than the one in Belize. The property had been in private ownership for years, and the owners did not let people know about the ruins. They actually destroyed some of the site’s buildings over the years. Eventually the Mexican government took over the property.
It is one of the most popular and important Mayan ruins because of its relationship to fertility. It is the Sanctuary to the Goddess Ixchel, who was a fertility goddess. In fact, young couples would come there to be married at the full moon, which was the best time for fertility. You can walk on an ancient road to the site of the alter to Ixchel and see where the weddings took place.
Our guide told us that at one time there were four statues of pregnant women on the four corners of the alter, that have been stolen.
There are only two known sites known to honor Ixchel, both are on islands. Our guide told us that the island represented a womb surrounded by water. Just as a fetus in the womb is surround by amniotic fluid. I found that fascinating.
There was also another building that was used for astronomy and following the sun and the moon. But mainly the moon as this was a site to the Ixchel, and the moon cycles were related to fertility. This was my favorite site of my trip!
If you go to Cozumel, I would recommend seeing this over going shopping!
zicharonot 