I really enjoyed our time in Leon. Besides my interest in the bits of Jewish history that still remained, I was also intrigued to learn that a building designed by Antoni Gaudi was there are well.
My two trips to Barcelona have made me a Gaudi fan. While there, I made a point of visiting all of the Gaudi sites that are open to the public. To have another Gaudi site to see in Leon was an unexpected joy.
Unlike Casa Batllo, Casa Vincens or Casa Mila, from the outside Casa Botines seems simple and calm. Situated on San Marcelo Square, it is a large rectangle building whose main eccentrics are noticeable in the four corner turrets and towers, the notable wrought iron fence and the sculpture of Saint George and the Dragon above the front door. (Which is why it is also known as the Dragon House.) Gaudi designed the sculpture, while Lorenzo Matamala actually carved it.
I loved the gate and fence. It seemed to reflect the idea of a dragon protecting the house in my mind.
Inside the house is also much simpler than other Gaudi creations. This makes sense as it is one of Gaudi’s earlier works. Cassa Batllo was built in 1902-4 and Park Quell from 1900 – 1914. Cas Botines was built decade earlier, in the 1890s, so perhaps Gaudi had not yet reached the apex of his most creative and inspired and colorful visions. Thus the Casa Botines seems a bit conservative after seeing his other works. Many are filled with vibrant colors and art. Whereas Casa Botines is mainly defined by the woodwork and staircase. Although there are stained class windows and colored glass in the house.
The woodwork is beautiful as in all Gaudi’s homes. The window frames, doorways, floors and staircases are stunning. I love the windows in the turrets and also the multi-paned window that frame the outdoor scenes. I can imagine living there and enjoying the warmth of the wood. However, Casas Botines was not actually built as a home, rather as the headquarters for a business.
Currently, Casa Botines is a museum about Gaudi. The rooms have some furniture that he created, including a heart chair, which I loved. There is much information about the building of the Casa Botines and about Gaudi. But there are also some items that make no sense to me as to why they are there. Like the dentist’s office set up in one of the rooms. But I think that is because a dentist used to live there.
Outside the house, in the courtyard, sits a statue of Gaudi sitting on a bench and sketching. I imagine him looking at the space and trying to plan what he would build there. I always wondered how he came up with his fantastical ideas. Of course they always began with a sketch.
On a side note, according to our tour guide, Gaudi’s visits to the cathedral in Leon, with its many stain glass windows, vibrant colors and extremely high ceilings, was inspiration for his masterpiece, the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Perhaps, a bit. But actually they are very different.
You can learn about my previous experiences with Gaudi in these two blogs:
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