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Walled Cities are Worth Visiting

9 Sep

There is something about a walled city that intrigues me.  I do not know if it is the history of the site, as many have UNESCO World Heritage designation or, perhaps the romance.  In my mind, a walled city is connected to a castle, to a fairytale and to a prince and princess. The walled cities in Europe were the fairytale castle cities.

But then walled cities are also associated with war and wealth.  The cities and the castle were walled in to keep the invaders out. Most of these also had forts associated with the walls.  I saw these types of walled cities in South America and the Caribbean and North America, where pirates worked diligently to steal the gold and silver that the Spanish and Portuguese had stolen from the indigenous peoples.

Within the walls people were safer and better off than those who were kept outside the gates.  I think in the days when the walls were important, I, as a Jewish woman, would have been kept out of the gates.  But now, I can walk through these cities and enjoy what has remained.

I have been to many cities throughout the world that still have remains of the walls, and in places where the walls are complete. The highlighted ones are the ones I liked the most. With so many walled cities to visit, I have decided on my top walled cities, some of which I have visited more than once.

Jerusalem, Israel,  is my top walled city.  I lived there for a year when I was in college and had many wonderful experiences.  That was over 50 years ago and the world has changed dramatically since then.  But Jerusalem with its stone buildings, archeological sites and important historic religious importance, has to be number one. You cannot walk through the Old City, or walk along the walls without thinking about all that happened. In Jerusalem. You walk in the steps of our ancestors, wondering about their lives and the intersections of the continents that made Judea such an important part of the ancient world.  You cannot forget Jerusalem and how the sun reflects unto the buildings at sunset creating a glow to the city. (UNESCO World Heritage)

Ephesus, Turkey, is my second amazing walled city. If you have ever been to the ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus it will stay in your mind forever. This once walled city that had three main gates was a port city. But over the centuries the port was filled in and the city disappeared. Now the spectacular remains, included the facade of the library, keeps your attention. If you have the chance, this is a place that needs to be visited.

Tallinn, Estonia, really does look like a storybook, fairytale town.  I enjoyed looking out of the walls to the city below and walking through all the shops.  It didn’t have the history or meaning for me as some of the other cities.  But I just thought it was quaint and lovely. (UNESCO World Heritage site)

The entrance to Lubeck, Germany, is so impressive. I thought it was amazing.  What was also amazing is that it survived the Second World War in somewhat good shape.  I loved the Braille 3-D map near the gate, where you could see the city in one place as if from above.  I enjoyed eating the Marzipan and strolling throughout the town.  But for me, seeing that a synagogue survived the Nazi era was important.   It survived because it was close to a church.  To me that seemed to have meaning.  If a church building could protect a synagogue, perhaps the people should be able to protect other citizens.  But as we see now, the world is not very kind or understanding. (UNESCO World Heritage site)

Number three is Vatican City, Rome, Italy. Both a city and a country in the midst of Rome.  I have only spent four days in Rome, but like Jerusalem, this city immerses a visitor in history.  Walking past structures that I studied in school is a bizarre experience. In my mind I could see the past that I studied. As we walked through the endless halls of wonders, I was overwhelmed by all the works of art from throughout the world. It was almost too much to see. Then to see the Sistine Chapel and later the St. Peters Basillica, I was done.  (UNESCO World Heritage)

Since I am discussing Italy, I must mention the lovely walled town of Como, Italy. We went to visit this walled city because my father suggested it. He had been involved in the textile industry for his entire career and used to travel to Italy all the time. Since we were in Milan, he told us we had to visit Como as it was once the capital of the Silk Trade. In fact, at one time there was a school to learn about silk there. Now it is a museum. I loved this city. We spent a day there visiting the museum, walking about and shopping. We ate lunch a little outside of town at a restaurant on the beach of Lake Como. I also must say, there is no car traffic in the walled old city. So it was a wonderful place to walk around and shop!

The college town of Guimaraes, Portugal, was also amazing. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has been a town for students since 1315.  We loved walking around the campus seeing the ‘modest’ student chapel, the spectacular library, the special dungeon for students who did wrong, and the room where students presented their work.  We were there near graduation, so we got to see a group of students having their graduation photos taking.  A great day.

After spending five days in Porto, Portugal, I feel like I really know this city as we walked everywhere.  Probably 30 miles over these days, from the lovely gardens, to the museums, to the port, across the bridge to the Port sellers, up the Funicular, just exploring this lovely UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of the city’s walls have been demolished. But you can see them along the river and in a few areas. The most important part of Porto are the hills, the views and the gardens!

Santiago de Compostela, Spain, is another city with religious history embedded in its being.  The focus of those following “The Way,” the Camino de Santiago, as people focus on arriving at the Church of St. Andrew, or Santiago.  The walled city is easy to walk through, with all roads leading to the Cathedral.  I enjoyed our three days three visiting the museums, listening to the music, exploring the sites, and watching the pilgrims arrive at the spacious square in front of the Cathedral. (UNESCO World Heritage)

Old City, Barcelona, Spain.  Barcelona is one of my favorite cities in the world mainly because I love the work of Antoni Gaudi.   But I also loved walking through the old city and visiting sites there including the. Old synagogue, that still exists.  My heritage is from the Spanish and Portuguese Jews who fled north to Amsterdam. We have been to Barcelona two times, and each time I have found new places to explore.  Most of the wall is gone, although you can see it in some places.  And although the city itself is not A UNESCO World Heritage site, it has nine sites in the city that are protected by the UNESCO including seven Antoni Gaudi creations.

Leon, Spain, intrigues me.  Even though many of the walls are down, we entered through what was once the Money Gate, or Puerta Moneda, the entrance that lead to the Jewish area. This is the only gate of the city that remains.   It was amazing to walk the streets and know that Leon was once the home to a large Jewish community.   In fact, in Leon here were many reminders of the community that was destroyed, including an old synagogue that is now a church, which you can visit.

The walls of Loga, Spain, are amazing.  To see them from outside the walls makes you take a breath! But then to walk on the walls later and look out at those same places you saw it for the first time is also amazing.  The walls of Loga were the widest walls I ever walked up.  You could actually have a party there.  And I bet some people do, because there are houses that are built into the wall.  I also enjoyed walking through the old city. But it is the walls themselves that stand out. Although the city of Loga is not a World Heritage Site, these walls have the UNESCO World Heritage designation.

Edinburgh, Scotland, We walked the hill up to the Castle.  Then we walked up the hill in the Castle. Then we looked down upon the city from the top of the Castle. Then we walked down the long hill in the castle, out the doors of the Castle, down the long hill to a street with shops, including ICE CREAM.  What I remember most is the hills.  Most of the city we saw by bus.  Although Edinburgh was traditionally a walled city, much of the walls are now gone. However, the castle makes up for that.  (UNESCO World Heritage site)

The first time I visited Quebec City, Canada, I was on a cruise.  I wasn’t expecting it to be a highlight, I really wanted to see Prince Edward Island and all the Anne Shirley experiences.  But when we arrived in Quebec City and I saw the Funicular I knew I would like it.  I liked it so much with its French and English old-world charm combined together in one city, that we came back a few years later to spend an entire week staying in the old city.  I loved it. (UNESCO World Heritage site).

Just as an aside, New Orleans, Louisiana, and Charleston, South Carolina, both once had defensive walls surrounding them. These no longer exist. But both cities still have the charm of a walled city!

San Juan, Puerto Rico, is a place I have visited many times.  The first time was on my honeymoon.  I have visited it three other times.  Each time we were on a cruise.  The last time was a few months before the big hurricane came and decimated the island. During that trip we took a walking tour through the old walled city, La Ciudad, and even visited the Fort, walking throughout and looking out at the views of the ocean.  I cannot believe that I hadn’t done that before.  I was amazed by the teeny yellow house, La Casa Estrecha.  It was the first time I had seen a house built in an alley.  But since I have seen such a house in another country.    The day we walked around there were artists selling their work, and many people enjoying what was lovely weather. (UNESCO World Heritage site)

I remember the heat of Cartagena, Columbia, as we walked around the old city, the las Ciudad amurallada.  We visited several museums including the one dedicated to the Inquisition in Columbia, which mainly tortured the indigenous people.   My comment was that you did not have to torture anyone, just make the stand outside for hours without water. Between the heat and humidity, they would give in. Cartagena’s walls were used to keep the Pirates out because Cartagena is the port that the Spanish used to ship the gold and silver back to Europe.  Of course we visited the gold museum there, Museo del Oro Zenu.  It had the best air conditioning, which made us all happy!

I have visited walled cities on four continents, on islands in the Caribbean and Mediterranean. Each walled city has its own charm. When I travel, I always try to visit UNESCO World Heritage Sites because they each have some special aspect that you do not see in other places around the world. Visiting walled cities makes you think about the people who figured out how to build them to protect their cities. The enormity of stability of these walls to last hundreds, even a thousand years, makes you think about how modern construction does not last as long.

Walled Cities are Worth Visiting. Enjoy!

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Norway Churches Look Nothing Like European Churches!

24 Jul

Norway, the country of fjords, lovely scenery and peace.  We had a wonderful journey on our Norway cruise, entering three different fjords to visit communities that were established centuries ago.  In Eidfjord, Olden and Alesund, we visited the churches that in some ways define the communities and the calmness of Norway.

Two were small churches in the tiny towns of Eidfjord and Olden.  Both towns were located at the end of beautiful and long fjords.  Although the outside of these buildings is different, the insides were so similar.

In Eidfjord, we walked up a long hill to reach the Old Church.  Along the way we saw a Viking Exhibition, showing how homes were built with grass roofs.  We had magnificent views of the hills in front of us and the town below.   Just before the Church was a black marble monolith with a butterfly on the top commemorating three who died during WW2 fighting the Germans. In front of the church was another engraved monolith from the early 1900s.

The Church, dedicated to St. James, was built of stone in 1309! But the best part of the church’s story is that it was built by a wealthy woman named Rike-Ragna in penitence for leaving her husband to die on a rock after an argument. Her tombstone is in the church!

I loved the plain wooden pews and was intrigued by the branches that were attached to the aisle side of the pews.  They made me think of reindeer.  But according to what I read, they were for men to hang their hats!!

It is simple, peaceful and calm inside.  To me the perfect place to speak to God or repent a sin. The altar of the church is simple with a wooden grill in front and then a simple painting.

The most amazing stone walls surrounded both the church and the cemetery in Eidfjord and Olden. I have the best photos of the wall in Olden.

The second church in Olden, Norway is a much bigger and newer building.  The original church was also built in the 14th century, but it was destroyed.  This church was built in 1759. Called, of course, the Old Olden Church, it was replaced as a parish church in the 1930s and became a museum used for special occasions.

The inside of this church is very similar to the Eidfjord church, although it has a vaulted ceiling.  But the pews are made of similar wood and the alter area is very similar with the grill area in front. For these pews, many of the little doors to enter them were carved by the families who sat there. Some of the pews and the doors are from the original church built in the 1300s. 

I have since learned that this is the only church in this area of Norway that is built in the shape of a crucifix or cruciform. They hoped that building it in this form would protect it from the strong winds.

The third church we visited was much more European in flavor.  The church in Alesund is a beautiful marble and stone building.  When we visited it was undergoing some repair work, hence the scaffolding around the building.

The first church was destroyed in a fire in 1904 which destroyed most of the town. This building was completed in 1909 and is much more ornate than the churches we visited in Olden and Eidfjord.

The other difference is that you do have to pay to enter this church, which is a functioning church and closed during funerals and other times.

The beautiful altar area of frescos and stained glass is really stunning.  These were made by town Norwegian artist, Martin Enevold Thomt and Oddvar Straume.  The wooden vaulted ceiling and the organ areas were beautifully carved.

There was also the carved face of a young girl that caught my eye. I have not found any information about it.  So if someone knows who she is, I would love to know!!

Besides the beauty of the building, what made is special for me was the young woman playing the piano while people visited the church.  It was calming and peaceful. Her music added to the experience. 

Surrounding the church is a small cemetery as well as a monument to those who died in World War 2. 

I find it interesting how different these churches were from the extremely ornate and lavish cathedrals and churches I have visited throughout Europe. Personally, for me praying in a calmer environment seems more suitable to prayer. Although the European churches are lovely in their way, I find it unsuitable to prayer…too much going on.

https://hardangerfjord.com/en/eidfjord/attractions/eidfjord-old-church-966383
https://kringom.no/en/stryn/old-olden-church
https://www.visitnorway.com/listings/alesund-church/13921

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Finding the Camino on “The Way” to Santiago de Compostela

19 May

People have been walking the Comino for over 1000 years. Most started for religious reasons.  But now people walk for many reasons. Many still for religion, but for others it is a personal journey that relates to their own needs.  They are searchers and pilgrims.

The are four main paths to the pilgrimage to the pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago to visit the cathedral where the relics of St. Anthony are interred in a silver casket. Camino Fraces, the French Way, is the most famous way and is 790 KM. The Original Way, from Oviedo and is 320 KM.  Or one of the two Comino Portugues.  One starts in Lisbon, 600 Km.  Or you can go the Camino Portugues that starts in Porto and is only 240 KM. 

Although we did not walk the 240 kilometers on our journey through Portugal and Spain, we did walk part of the Comino in many of the places we visited.  Throughout our trip we would see the shell symbol of the Comino etched or painted on the ground; carved or placed on the side of a building; posted on signposts along the way. We cannot get credit for walking the 100 km minimum. To be recognized, but along the way, I am sure we walked about 20 kilometers of The Way.

The Comino is a World Heritage Site since 1993, and many walkers start their journey in April.  We saw many pilgrims with the staff and shell adorned backpack along our way. They were intent on reaching their goal…the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

To talk about the Comino, I feel that you must talk about churches.  But for me, I need to start at the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela, the supposed burial site of the apostle St. James.

The giant carved shell, symbol of the Comino outsdie the church.
Inside the church from the back to the altar.
Saint Antony’s relic.
My secret photo from the behind the altar.
This door only opens on special ocassions,.

We were told that when we reached the Praza do Obradoiro, the main square in front of the Cathedral, we needed to look around. If we were lucky, we would see a group of pilgrims arriving at this their final destination.  I was lucky.  I was looking in the right direction when a group four pilgrims arrived.  The face of one woman in particular glowed. She started hugging her companions and crying with emotion.  Yes, I took a photo.  It was intense and lovely. They stopped in front of the cathedral and stared.  I imagine were thinking about the effort and the journey to get there, not about walking in, seeing the church, the relic and getting their certificate.

Pilgrims arriving at the plaza.

But they would not be entering through the large green main doors. Those doors are closed now. You have to enter from a side door, because you cannot enter the Portico of Glory.  Since its renovation 10 years ago, you must have special passes to see it. We were fortunate that Road Scholar obtained passes for our group.  And it is magnificent.

In the movie, “The Way,” Martin Sheen’s character enters the cathedral and places his hand on the statue in an area that over time was worn away to resemble a hand.  The area is still visible, but the 200 statues in the Portico have been renovated, cleaned, and stand to show their beauty. You cannot take photos, but it was so lovely I had to buy a little guide book about the Portico. 

We then had to leave the Portico and go out of the cathedral to reenter another door to see the massive cathedral itself.  To be honest it is a little sad for me.  They removed all the classic statues and art from the original 11th and 12th century building to remake it in the ornate and gold gilded way of the usual European Baroque Cathedral.  It was lovely. The ceiling was magnificent.  But after seeing the Portico, I would have loved to see more of these amazing sculptures.

We went down into the area where St. Antony’s relic is kept and then walked up the other side, which leads you behind the alter and behind the statue of St. Anthony. On his back is the shell symbol of the pilgrimage.  Many people hug the statue, not me.  However, I did touch the shell.  I also took two photos.  Which I found out I was not supposed to do, but no one told us and the guard was very kind to this ‘little old lady’ and just said no more photos.   But I did get a great photo looking out to the cathedral. And the giant incense burner. 

Later in the day we went to the Cathedral’s Museum where we saw a replica of the incense burner and other objects. I was suprised to see a replica painting of the Lady of Guadalupe. We had seen the original at the Basilica in Mexico City. But I guess people go on pilgrimage to see her as well.

The giant incense holder.
THis little statue reminded me of the Portico of Glory art.
A replica of Our Lady Of Guadalupe. We saw the original in Mexico City.

We had a lovely three nights in Santiago staying in the lovely Virze de Cerca hotel.  Opened in 1999, it was once an old home and is now a hotel with some rooms in the ancient building, and others in a newer building on the other side of a lovely garden courtyard.  One day we went to the Mercado de Abastos and purchased wine, bread, sardines, fruit, cheese and meat to have our very own picnic at the hotels garden.  Wonderful.

The entire city of Santiago has a spiritual feeling. You see the pilgrims everywhere. You can tell those who are just finishing and are exhausted from the ones who have been in the city for a day or two and are just enjoying the city’s joyful ambience. There are street performers singing, dancing, and entertaining everywhere. It was the highlight of the trip for me.  But we had to get here, first visiting other churches and sites along the way, and then we had to continue on, seeing wonderful places and had great experiences as we journeyed to our final destination.

Starting from the beginning of our trip.  We had our first encounter with The Way, with the sighting of our first shell symbol in Guimaraes.  It was the first of many signs we saw along the way to Santiago.

In our journey we visited many churches besides the Cathedral de Santiago.  I will only discuss the ones we actually entered. 

The stair way to heaven behind the altar.
The statue on the left for students is being restored.

The first was St. Michael’s Chapel of Coimbra University, which dates to the early 1600s. This chapel is devoted to education and light. “St. Michael was also the headquarters of the Brotherhood of Professors and Students under the invocation of Our Lady of Light,” according to the website about it.  (See below.)

There is a stature to honor students and one to honor professors. Its main statute is to honor the Lady of Light.  The statute to students was being restored, so we did not get to see it. But we got the sense of it.  I could see students there the night before a big exam praying for the light of knowledge and the ability to remember all they memorized!!

Some of the walls were tiled with Portuguese tiles and the ceiling decoration was stunning.  Like so many others, it was ‘elevated’ at some time to the baroque view of beauty.  The best was the altar piece that included a depiction of the ‘stairway to heaven.’  If you made it all the way up you were blessed to go to heaven, but along the way you could lose your step and there was a demon waiting for you. Probably a good message for college students!!

The next day we visited a church site, but did not time to visit the inside.  We made the pilgrimage to Bon Jesus de Monte.  Claudia, our guide told us that most pilgrims to Bon Jesus now are those who love to exercise. They walk up and down the over 600 steps to the top of the hill and then back down. 

The grounds and the views from the top of the hill are magnificent. And the outside of the Church is impressive. But we only had 20 minutes on the top, our visit there was mainly for the view.

We took the funicular, which is one of my favorite means of transportation.  This was a very old, 100 years or so, well used funicular.  Very unlike the one we took in Porto.  But I enjoyed going both ways.  Only nine of our group decided to walk down the many, many stairs.  The rest of us waiting and took photos making believe we had walked!

The start of the walk down.
People coming down the stairs.

Our next stop was Santiago, which was a highlight of the trip. Afterwards there was still more to see and symbols of the Comino that came from Spain and from France. So our path to The Way was heading away. However, as we now know, all roads lead to Santiago de Compostela.

The next church was in Leon. And it was a two-part visit.  First was to the Catedral Santa Maria de Leon, or the Leon Cathedral.   Our guide told me that Gaudi got the inspiration from this church and its high ceilings and multi-colors that come in from the 1800 square meters of stained glass window when he design the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia.  I am not sure I see it. But he did live in Leon for a while, and you never know what went through his mind.

In any case, this cathedral is filled with wonderful stained glass, which is in the process of being renovated.  It has taken years and will take many more as they take each window down and restore it and then put a panel on the outside to keep the windows safe from the elements.

There were several statues of religious figures in the church that I found especially appealing because they looked like real people.

While there were also visited the cathedral’s museum, specifical to see the Basilica de San Isidoro and the frescoes that adorn the Royal Pantheon.  It is considered to be the “Sistine Chapel” of Spanish Romanesque style” according to information our guide gave us. It was amazing and surreal as we walked among the graves of Spanish royalty to view the ceilings. 

I am glad we had the opportunity to visit the Pantheon.  I have been to the Sistine Chapel and stood in the middle of the large room to stare up at the masterpiece depiction of God creating the world. The artwork here was not as ornate, but was well worth the time staring upwards.

I truly enjoyed my experience learning about The Way and the people who make the pilgrimage and the places they might visit on their journey of self discovery.

Inicio

https://catedraldesantiago.es/visitaportico/en/welcome-portico-glory

museo

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/347

https://www.centerofportugal.com/poi/st-michaels-chapel-of-the-university-of-coimbra

https://leon.es/en/what-to-see/monuments/st-isidores-basilica/
https://www.fundacionjacobea.org/en/ways-of-santiago/what-to-visit/the-cathedral-of-leon-and-its-stained-glass-windows

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Palaces, Walls, and A Castle In Spain!

12 May

When we planned our Road Scholar trip to Portugal and Spain I was excited that we would be going to many World Heritage sites, including castles and palaces.  Let’s be honest, I was born along with DisneyLand in 1955 and I grew up seeing the Disney castle every week on the Wonderful World of Disney.   I remember so well the evil villain of Babes in Toyland singing, “My Castle in Spain.”  For me this was going to be a highlight.

We saw a number of  castles and palaces on our trip.  Some were absolutely extravagant; others were just empty stone shells without much romance.  I always knew that the tapestries were created to keep the rooms warmer.  But until you walk through a large castle and see the size of the rooms, and the small size of fireplaces and heaters, do you realize that these places would be extremely cold in the winter.  In fact, our guide told use that most people had to walk around wrapped in a blanket.  BRRR

Even still, with this reality check, with knowing when I saw the Castle in Segovia that it had been heavily damaged by a fire and most of it was reconstruction, I could not help but be joyful.  Why? Because was like seeing the real Disney Castle in Segovia, I knew my wish had come true.  So instead of starting at the beginning of our trip and describing our experience in order, I must start with our second to last castle, Alcazar!

Throne Room

The Disneyworld Cinderella Castle’s towers and windows were based on the Alcazar of Segovia, Spain.  Perhaps other elements come from other castles.  But once you see the Alcazar, all you can do is hum, “When I Wish Upon A Star.”  I did that for the entire time we toured the castle.  I might have made my sister and husband crazy.   

After walking uphill through narrow, ancient streets of Segovia we came upon the first sight of Alcazar, which has been a World Heritage Site since 1985. Some castles you cannot enter.  But this one was not only renovated, it had furniture in some rooms to make you realize what it once looked like.  It is also a museum. 

Before I leave Segovia, I must say there is another important site to see there, the Roman Aqueduct that is about six stories high when goes above ground , while its underground route through the town is marked with different stones.  It is an amazing feat of construction!!

Now that I have finished swooning over Alcazar, I will return to the beginning of our adventure and talk about the Palacio da Borsa, the original Board of Trade.  Although it is not a castle, it is definitely a palace.  Some of its rooms are absolutely stunning. I understand why it is an event space for conferences, conventions and if someone could afford it, what a place for a wedding!!

From the Grand Staircase, to the meeting rooms, –  each one has its own character and special artwork, on the ceilings, the walls, the floors, the furniture- the building is elegant.  The trial room with its ornate carved wooden furniture and beautiful art; the views; the room where Gabinete De Gustave Eifel worked when he was in Porto; The Hall of Countries.

Entrance to Golden room.
Some of the detail.
The ceiling
The floor

All of it fabulous. But nothing prepares you for the Golden Room.  Many people oooh and Ahhh over the Amber Room in Catherine’s Palace near St. Petersburg.  And that room is stunning, I admit when I saw it in 2018. But to be honest, the Golden Room with all its intricate carving and inlaid is something special.  It made me think of the inlay at the Taj Mahal. The inlaid wooden floors were reminiscent of the ones I saw in the Hermitage in Russia, but actually more intricate. From floor to walls to ceiling to columns, there is not one spot untouched and plain.  My pictures will not do it justice. But if you ever have a chance to go to Porto, you must visit the Golden Room.  My brain was exhausted after seeing it.

The walls are sitting on granite boulders.

Thank goodness our next stop, the first castle on our tour, was less ornate but also fascinating in its own right: The Castelo de Guimaraes in Guimaraes. We did not actually go into this10th century edifice, we walked around the stone fortifications and massive walls. It is built on top of a granite mountain, and some of its walls are the granite stones.  And they are enormous.  They are everything a castle should look like from the outside.  It was constructed by order of Countess Mumadona Dias to protect a monastery from  Moorish invaders.  Although the castle is not a world heritage site, it is a Portuguese National Monument since the late 1890s.

On the grounds of the castle are two more buildings. First the Church of Saint Michael.  This little chapel was the place where Portuguese King Afonso Henriques was baptized in 1927. There is no furniture in the church as the entire floor are the tombstones of important people.  In fact, you can only walk around the inside perimeter, so you do not cause damage to the engravings.

The Palace of the Dukes of Braganza is there as well. We only walked along the outside.  It was renovated in the 1930s and served as the residence for the then President Antonio Salazar. Although part of it is open to the public, we did not go inside.

Although not a palace or a castle, the University of Coimbra, founded in 1290, definitely feels like one.  I am not sure I would be able to actually go to classes there, especially in some of the older buildings.  I would be too busy looking around.

Underground student prison.
Our tour guide on the ‘toilet.’
Room for presentations.
Ceiling of Presentation Room.
Part of the Courtyward and the view.

 We were not allowed to take photos of the famous library.  It is a stunning work of carved wood and bookcases filled with ancient tomes.  It is still used by students and scholars, but the books must be ordered in advanced and not allowed to leave the campus.

The lecture room, where students present their PhD dissertations also makes you think of a castle great room.  The ceiling is stunning as is the woodwork. 

But I have to be honest the part that capture most of our attention was the fantastic view of the city and the river; watching the students take their graduation photos; and finally visiting the underground ‘dungeon’ that was a special prison for students who got into trouble.  This is not your usual dungeon, because since the students were from the upper class, even when they got in trouble they did not suffer like the riff-raff. In fact, we were amazed that they actually had a two-seat stone toilet to use.  They could spend anywhere from a day to several months here depending on their misbehavior.

Later photo shows me between the window openings.

Next stop the monstrous and magnificent Roman Walls of Lugo. We walked around them from the outside.  And then we walked on the walls in two different places.  Once the walls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, also had multiple towers surrounding the city.  Now just vestiges of the towers remain.

Along the wall, people stroll.
Part of the tower that still exists.
House built into the wall with an entrance.

Walking along the walls give you a great view of both the old and new cities, but also make you aware of how technologically advanced the Romans were as these walls have lasted centuries.  Over time, some people had the opportunity to build their homes right into the wall and have the walls paths as their backyard.  People can no longer do this, but those who have this cannot be destroyed.

Our final Palace was La Granja, or Real Sitio de San Ildefonso, was the summer home of the Spanish kings.  It was walking distance to our hotel, the Parador De La Granja. Our hotel was once part of the Palace grounds and was the home of two children and their attendants. 

This is made in France with porcelain flowers.
These weigh almost 200 pounds each

The Palace is enormous, we only got to see about ¼ of the total rooms, just walking through the open rooms on the bottom floor.  Through the windows we could see some of the fantastic gardens. Unfortunately, they were closed because that evening some of the fountains were going to be opened. But from what I could see these gardens are much like the ones in Russia at the Peterhof Palace.

The chandeliers and ceilings in this palace were stunning. The Royal Glass company is in San Ildefonso, so many of them were made in the town for the Palace. For  this palace I will just show you some of these fantastic and some fanciful chandeliers.  To be honest after going through these rooms I became somewhat overwhelmed.  But it was definitely a great final stop on our tour.

Inicio

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber_Room

Paço dos Duques – Home

https://www.uc.pt

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/987/ https://www.spain.info/en/destination/san-ildefonso-o-la-granja/

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Vineyards Adventure In Portugal and Spain: Drinking Our Way…

9 May

Our trip to Spain and Portugal with Road Scholar was entitled, “Beyond the Vineyards, but in reality, it should have been called In the Vineyards, Drinking your way through Portugal and Spain.

I learn much about white wines, red wines, port, sweet sherry, sweet vermouth.  I drank more wine in two weeks than I usually drink in a year.  I am not exaggerating!  I discovered that my wine pallet was immature.  I like table wines much more than the expensive bold flavored wines.  I am ok with that.  I also learned that every lunch and dinner in the Iberian Peninsula comes with wine and more wine.  I learned to turn my red wine goblet upside down and to put my hand over the top of my white wine glass after the second refill and shake my head saying “por favor, no mas.”

I learn how different barrels and/or stainless-steel containers change the taste of wine and that all vineyards do not grow their grape vines the same way.  I thought all wine vines grew about waist high off the ground.  I am so wrong: some grow overhead, others close to the ground.  I learned that weather and rain impact how wine vines grow.   I learned that roses are planted in vineyards not for beauty, but because if a rose bush gets a disease, it indicates that the vineyard could have a disease as well.  Olive trees are planted for a similar reason. Also, and important, is that there are the most lovely peacocks at almost every winery.  We were told that they indicate great wealth.  So having peacocks on the grounds was popular.

I found out there is much wine tourism in the Iberian Peninsula. Here is a summary of the wine tour aspect of our lovely and exhaustive program. Mayra, our main tour guide told us that before the pleasure of wine tasting was the hard work of learning about the vineyard.  To be honest that was my favorite part, because many of these vineyards were just lovely.

Fermentation building.
Original wine bottles.

Quinta de Aveleda was our first vineyard on the way to Guimaraes. I have written about Quinta de Aveleda in an earlier post because of its absolutely stunning acres upon acres of gardens.  I will not write about them again, but honestly, they are worth seeing. (See link below.)

We were allowed into the barrel room (fermentation) to see and smell where the wine ferments and learn about the process.  In this winery, and its centuries old building, we could really smell the fermentation. We saw a display of some of its original bottles.  And had the opportunity to taste both a red and a white wine.  I will say that the Casal Garcia, Vinho Verde, turned out to be my favorite wine of the entire trip.  These wines are not fermented for long, so they are considered ‘green’ or young wines.

The machine to stamp the name of the winery.

Our next stop was to find out the overall history of wine making in the Douro River area at the Museo del Douro tour in Regua.  Marco was our very enthusiastic and wonderful museum docent.  We had a great, detailed overview of the start to finish of wine making in the Douro area, starting with the Romans and the priests who came later.  Wine making and drinking were very popular.

I was amazed that people would carry 80 pounds of grapes on their shoulders in heavy wooden baskets during the picking season.  I learned how they bottled the wine, made the labels and branded the crates.  People do not become vintners overnight. There is training and a hierarchy of influence.  Going to this museum gave us a foundation for each of the rest of the wine related stops we visited. 

After our tour, we were also treated to a glass of wine and/or lemonade.  It was a delicious end to a great museum visit. (Always a glass of wine, but in many stops they had non-alcoholic drinks for those who do not imbibe alcohol.)

After we left the museum, we traveled to another vineyard.  Along the way, we learned that the vineyards themselves are a World Heritage Site.  These terraced vineyards were terraced by hand and then separated by the stones that the farmers dug up.  Today, those that have decayed over time, cannot be torn down because they are protected by the World Heritage designation.  

Some of the vineyards were abandoned when Phylloxera, a tiny insect, destroyed most of the vineyards in Europe.  The only solution was to bring in roots from US vineyards, which were immune to the insect, and graft European grape vines on to them. The phylloxera blight almost destroyed the wine making business in Europe.

When we arrived at Quinta Da Pacheca we learned more about the wine tourism business.  At this vineyard, they still crush the grapes by stomping on them.  They allow paying tourists to come and participate in the process.  But they told us, the tourists only last for about 30 minutes of stomping, while the people who live there often stomp for hours.  I am exhausted thinking about it after seeing the giant stone basins when the stomping takes place.

When we toured its fermentation room, I was amazed at the giant barrels that were once used to store the grape juice that turned into wine.  These are no longer used in the wine making, but are there for people to view.  They are enormous. 

Even bigger are the one designed to cater to the wine tourism. Quinta Da Pacheca offers its tourist a chance to stay in a room made from a giant barrel.  But these were made specifically for living.

Of course, there was wine to taste and a peacock to admire.

The entrance to the wine cellars.
Tile above the door of the wine tasting room
Part of our lunch.
Three wines here, red, rose and white.

Our next vineyard Adegas de Casa de Santar or Casa Santar  located in the Dao region of Portugal. We had a tour of part the large vineyards, the granite wine cellar with its wonderful entrance, the wine tasting room, a food demonstration and then finally a meal and a wine tasting.

I loved the two-century old building where the winery was located.  The tasting room, where the original owner would taste the wines, was something special, especially the tiled scenes about the windows and doors.  The chef did a demonstration of cooking the food we would be eating for lunch.  We also learned about the three wines we would be tasting: Casa de Santar Reserva Red, Casa De Santar Colheita White and Casa de Santar Reserve Rose.

We spent a few days in Santiago de Compostela, which will be a separate blog.  That doesn’t mean we did not drink wine…we did some tasting on our own.  But we did not go to a winery for two days. When we did, it was time to taste Spanish Galician wine and food.

We went to Bodegas Del Palacio de Fefinaneto to see the winery.  I must say I was very confused at this winery.  There is this castle-like structure at the end of road. When you walk into a large courtyard.  Then there is another street with restaurants along the side.  I thought the street was part of the winery. But no, that was a part of the small town that surrounds the winery.

Here we saw a totally different way of growing wine.  Because of the water and the climate, here the vines grow up high on pagodas, with the grapes hanging down.  The juice is first put into stainless steel drums to ferment and then put into the barrels.

After our wine tasting, we had some time to walk down that little street and get a treat.  For me it was a delicious coconut macaroon and ice tea.  I was quite happy!!

Our final winery was the most intense!! Dehesa de los Canonigos offered us tasting and light lunch in the “Golden Mile,” of the Spanish Riveria Region, the Spanish Duero River.  We got a true education there. The Sommelier was fantastic and gave us so much information. It was so interesting, my husband who uses hearing aids, had his phone save what she was saying.

This was the youngest of the wineries.  It was established in 1989 by Luis and Mariluz Sanz. But the house and the vineyards are much older.  Constructed in the 19th century, the main house was designed by a famous architect and is designed in the Basque country style. For many years they provided the grapes to another well-known winery before they started making their own wine.

What you notice right away is that the grapes and vines are extremely close to the ground.  Once again, this is because of the weather and altitude.  It is 750 meters above sea level, so the temperature varies from day to night.  It gets very hot here in the summer, so the grapes stay close to the ground to get as much moisture as possible. Our guide spent much time explaining how the vines rest in the winter and wake up when it is 10 degrees Celsius.  I was amazed to learn about weeping vines during the spring pruning.  Vines can weep, or release sap for up to two weeks and up to five liters a week. This just stuck with me.

At this vineyard they use two different types of barrels: white oak from France and from the USA. We got to taste two different wines. One that spends 15 months in American oak, Los Banonigos; and one that spends 24 months in French Oak, Soleo Deo.

I wish I could tell you everything she taught us about wine.  But that would be three more blogs!    So I will end this saying that I learned more about wine during this trip then I could imagine.  There were many on our tour who already had a great appreciation and knowledge of wine making. I was not one of them.  But I so much more appreciate the wine I drink and the skill and attention to detail that makes it delicious.

Drinking My Way Through Portugal and Spain: The Beautiful Gardens

https://aveleda.com/en/wine-tourism/quinta-da-aveleda

https://www.museudodouro.pt

INÍCIO
https://pacheca.com/pages/quintadapacheca?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=13743095986&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2I_qpoqrlAMVai3UAR3WFhvYEAAYASAAEgLo8fD_BwE
https://www.fefinanes.com/en/

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Gaudi’s Casa Botines, or La Casa Del Dragon

6 May

I really enjoyed our time in Leon. Besides my interest in the bits of Jewish history that still remained, I was also intrigued to learn that a building designed by Antoni Gaudi was there are well.

My two trips to Barcelona have made me a Gaudi fan.  While there, I made a point of visiting all of the Gaudi sites that are open to the public.  To have another Gaudi site to see in Leon was an unexpected joy. 

The side turret/tower
The sculpture of George and the dragon.

Unlike Casa Batllo, Casa Vincens or Casa Mila, from the outside Casa Botines seems simple and calm. Situated on San Marcelo Square, it is a large rectangle building whose main eccentrics are noticeable in the four corner turrets and towers, the notable wrought iron fence and the sculpture of Saint George and the Dragon above the front door.  (Which is why it is also known as the Dragon House.) Gaudi designed the sculpture, while Lorenzo Matamala actually carved it.

I loved the gate and fence. It seemed to reflect the idea of a dragon protecting the house in my mind.

The side gate.

Inside the house is also much simpler than other Gaudi creations. This makes sense as it is one of Gaudi’s earlier works. Cassa Batllo was built in 1902-4 and Park Quell from 1900 – 1914.  Cas Botines was built decade earlier, in the 1890s, so perhaps Gaudi had not yet reached the apex of his most creative and inspired and colorful visions.  Thus the Casa Botines seems a bit conservative after seeing his other works.  Many are filled with vibrant colors and art.  Whereas Casa Botines is mainly defined by the woodwork and staircase. Although there are stained class windows and colored glass in the house.

The woodwork is beautiful as in all Gaudi’s homes. The window frames, doorways, floors and staircases are stunning.  I love the windows in the turrets and also the multi-paned window that frame the outdoor scenes.  I can imagine living there and enjoying the warmth of the wood.  However, Casas Botines was not actually built as a home, rather as the headquarters for a business.

My favorite, the heart chair.

Currently, Casa Botines is a museum about Gaudi.  The rooms have some furniture that he created, including a heart chair, which I loved.  There is much information about the building of the Casa Botines and about Gaudi.  But there are also some items that make no sense to me as to why they are there.  Like the dentist’s office set up in one of the rooms. But I think that is because a dentist used to live there.

Outside the house, in the courtyard, sits a statue of Gaudi sitting on a bench and sketching. I imagine him looking at the space and trying to plan what he would build there. I always wondered how he came up with his fantastical ideas. Of course they always began with a sketch.

Stained glass in Casa Botines.
Inside the cathedral in Leon. Did it inspire Gaudi?

On a side note, according to our tour guide, Gaudi’s visits to the cathedral in Leon, with its many stain glass windows, vibrant colors and extremely high ceilings, was inspiration for his masterpiece, the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.  Perhaps, a bit. But actually they are very different.

You can learn about my previous experiences with Gaudi in these two blogs:

My Architectural Love Affair With Hundertwasser and Gaudi
I Do Love Gaudi! My Second Barcelona Gaudi Adventure.

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Entering Another World: The Gardens of Portland

25 Oct

Portland, Oregon, is home to three of the most beautiful gardens I have visited!

China Town and the Lan Su Chinese Garden is located just off the Willamette River near the Steel Bridge. It was a mile walk from our hotel.  So we decided to walk over the Steel Bridge in order to see it up close.

Opened for use in 1912, the Steel Bridge (yes, it is made of steel) has a central area that is a vertical lift, which moves the two-deck surface upwards so that high ships can sail under it. It is an amazing contraption to see.  Since the bridge has a Kansas City connection – Waddel & Harrington, who designed it were a Kansas City firm – I felt it was something we had to experience. Although the lower deck is built for pedestrians, we did not know that when we walked across, so we took the top deck.   At times, I noted that the railings along the deck were quite low, so I recommend the lower deck for walking.

The entrance to Lan Su.
Beautiful woodwork.
the teahouse.
Inventive ways to view gardens.
The amazing stone inlaid patios.

At the end of the bridge, it was a short walk to the Lan Su Chinese Garden. This delightful oasis was built in 1999 by 65 artisans who came from China and opened to the public in 2000.  There is a short movie that explains how it was built.  I was fascinated by the inlaid rock areas.  I even asked the guide if we were allowed to walk on it, it was so beautiful

The gardens and the lake create lovely view, but so is the wonderful craftmanship of the buildings and the woodwork.  You are able to walk into all the buildings and admire them.  The tea house serves a variety of teas and pastry. We had to stop in there for a snack and enjoyed to views of the gardens. 

When walking through the gardens, I did not think of the city around us, instead I felt like I was encapsulated in a hidden jewel.

China Town Gate.

Afterwards we walked to the Golden Horse restaurant for a lunch.  It seemed right that we have Chinese food after visiting the garden. 

The next day we continued our Asian garden experiences with a visit to the Portland Japanese Gardens in Washington Park.  WOW! If Lan Su is an encapsulated oasis within the city, the 12-acre Japanese Gardens is a paradise!

A part of Washington Park since 1962, this peaceful setting was built to bring healing to the city after World War 2. I believe it did.  You cannot walk through these gardens and not appreciate the culture that produce it.

Like Lan Su, there are buildings on the grounds including a Japanese Tea House.  Since it is a much larger garden, there is a learning Center, a Café, a more.    But for me it was the gardens that drew my admiration. 

You start at the bottom of a hill after paying at the Welcome Center, meandering upwards to antique gate and continuing up. Looking back at the views of the city as you climb the foliage is really breathtaking.  At the top you enter the Nezu Gate by the Japanese Arts Learning Center, where you can visit the Bonsai Garden. From there, you take the paths around the garden settings with koi ponds, waterfalls, raked sands and more. Every garden has resting spots where you can sit quietly and enjoy the views and the peace and serenity.

I think if I lived in Portland I would go to the Japanese Gardens weekly to ease my anxieties.

My favorite Rose.

Because we were in Washington Park, after we finished our time at the Japanese Garden, we did walk over to the International Rose Test Garden.  Established in 1917, this garden has over 4 acres of magnificent roses.  I was here several years ago when I first visited Portland. But we had to stop in to see the beauty of this garden as well.  There are always amazing roses during the blooming season. One peach-colored rose caught my eye, its petals resembled crepe paper.

And a wonderous mansion too!

Sewing Room.
Intercom.
Mrs. Pittock.

Since we were in Washington Park, we visited one more spot close to Washington Park, the exquisite Pittock Mansion. The home of the owner of the Portland Oregonian, the mansion took two years to build, with a move in date of 1914.  Overlooking the city and the river, it has magnificent views and lovely gardens as well. But it is the house that is the main attraction.

It was an enormous laundry!
Shower with many streams of water.
Shower in one of the bathtubs.
Sitz bath!
Freezers

The Pittock Mansion has many innovations for a house of its time.  The abundant bathrooms had all the ‘modern conveniences” with both tubs and showers; an intercom system: extensive laundry room and an amazing cold room. The door was extra insulated and the room contained cold storage. Mr. Pittock wanted the best and the most up-to-date home.

After the family moved out in 1958, the house was abandoned. Eventually the city purchased it and  restored it and opened it to the public in 1965. I am sure the upkeep is still tremendous!

Today it is a great venue for weddings and other events. I had to pose on the grand staircase. It was a moment for me to imagine living there. Which I never could, but really some spots just call out for a photo.  The Pittock Mansion is another must see site in Portland.

Steel Bridge
Visit

https://japanesegarden.org/

https://www.portlandpf.org/rose-test-garden

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My Own Secret Annex

5 Feb

Last week the plumber came to my house to fix an outdoor faucet that was leaking. He told me that if things went well, he would be able to do it from the outside.  It did not go well.  The faucet was over 30 years old and had seized up. 

We thought he would have to cut a hole in the drywall of my finished basement.  But first he started looking around.  Could he go through the closet? That would not work.

Was there another way. Also, he wondered how they could put both water and gas pipes on the  without some sort of an access.  He continued to searched around.

Finally he pointed to what I thought was an air conditioner exchange during our five years in this house.  “What’s that?” he questioned.  He started moving some furniture away from the wall.  Then said, “I might have to unscrew it to see what’s behind it.”

But he did not have to unscrew anything.  That air conditioner vent was hinged and held closed by a spring.  When he opened this ‘door’, there was a crawl space with access to all the pipes. There was even a light switch and a working light.

First View of Secret Space
Lights, Insulation and carpets

As he opened it, I was excited!  My first words were, “Wow, I have a secret room!” I always wanted a secret room.  Friends of mine had a hidden door that looked like a bookcase.  When you opened it, you were in the room with a dome and telescope.  I always wanted a secret hideaway.  Now I had one. 

In the meantime, the plumber was able to quickly fix my faucet issue, including replacing the old water turn off valve in this crawl space. 

After he left, I started thinking about my secret space.  It is a great spot for hiding.  No one knows it is there.  It looks just like a vent for the air conditioner.  With furniture in front of the lower part of it, no one would never think it was larger than a normal air vent. It is in a very good place for a secret space.  There is a closet in front of it.  Anyone who opens it would think went to the end of the house.  Staircases enclose it.  There is a solid wall on one side, and the outside walls on two sides, with just this tiny door to get in.

It even had lighting.  It was insulated. And although you cannot stand up in it. Three or four people could comfortably sit inside. It made me think of the secret annex that Anne Frank and her family lived it. Wait, why did my mind go there?   

Then it hit me, that I was actually thinking that this is a place where I can hide my family if needed.  I have never ever felt that way before.   But in the past 18 months as the Jew Hatred seems to grow, and the craziness builds, it was a thought that has stayed in my mind.  What would we do if people really went crazy?  I believe I am safe.  I know I have great neighbors and friends.  But then my family in Poland felt the same way before their property was confiscated and they were murdered.

I know it is not March 3, 1942, when all the remaining Jews of the area my great grandparents lived in were rounded up.  Less than 100 Jews survived from over 5,000  who lived there.  My family included two of these survivors.  I knew them.  I also know of many who died.

Honestly, would I ever have to use this secret room to hide out from those who want to do evil?  I think not.  But there is just this teeny bit of doubt that makes me feel sad for the world. 

I would rather hold on to the feeling of excitement for a secret crawl space. I would rather focus on a  discovery saved much time and money in fixing a pipe and gave me the joy of discovery something new about my home.

I am praying for our country and the world that sanity will prevail, fear will dissipate, and hate will disappear.

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Remembering and Looking Forward 

7 Oct

The Anne Frank Center and Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim

When we drove from Asheville to Charleston, before the hurricane, friends of ours who live in Charleston suggested we stop at the Anne Frank Center located on the campus of the University of South Carolina. 

I never expected South Carolina would be the home of one of four Anne Frank Centers in the world, and the only one in the United States, in partnership with the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam.  I contacted the Center before our trip and was able to make an appointment to tour the exhibits.

So today, on October 7, 2024, I feel that I must remember the distant past of Jew hatred as we mourn the one year anniversary of the vicious attack on Israel.

The Anne Frank House does an excellent job recreating the feeling of the hidden annex.  While touring the exhibit, visitors will enter a display of Anne Frank’s diary written in many languages on a wall of bookcases.  Not surprisingly one bookcase opens allowing visitors to enter a darkened room that helps tell the story of the Annex.  Having visited the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, I was amazed about how this small display harkens to the feelings I had in Amsterdam.

Besides the onsite programs, the Anne Frank House also offers traveling exhibits that can be sent across the USA.  They teach local high school or college students to serve as the guides to the 32-panel exhibit. I would love to see this exhibit in my home community!  Our tour at the Anne Frank Center was led by a college sophomore who was doing her first tour for us and her dad!  Emma did a great job. I could see that she related to the world of Anne.

Going to the Anne Frank Center and remembering her words of hope help me see hope in the situation that we have in the Middle East today.  There are good people who want this violence to stop.  Who want terrorists to end their campaign of hatred.  No one wants innocents, like Anne Frank, to suffer or die.  So I have to believe there will be peace.

My feelings of hope continued in Charleston where we visited the 275-year-old Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim synagogue, founded in 1749. It is the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the United States. The current building dates from 1841, after a fire in 1838 destroyed the second building.

 Originally a Sephardic synagogue with the bima in the center and balconies above for the women, it changed in 1879, when the bima moved to the front and women joined men in siting for services. Later, after the earthquake of 1886, the balconies were destroyed and were not replaced.

Standing in a building that has housed a congregation since 1840, almost 190 years, and knowing that the congregation itself is 275 years old gives me hope. This congregation has survived the Revolutionary War, Civil War, WW1, WW2, antisemitism, the creation of the State of Israel, the rise of the alt right in the south, and more.  The fact that it continuous to be an active congregation gives me hope.

Today, I remember my feelings on October 7, 2023, when my daughter called me from Israel to say she and her husband were okay, but that the situation was very bad. The entire country was in shock.  Everyone knows someone who died.  For me, although I knew no one, I do know people who lost family members and friends.  The past cannot be forgotten. However with education, like that of the Anne Frank Center, and endurance like that of Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim, I believe we can look forward with hope to the future.

https://sc.edu/study/colleges_schools/education/partnerships_outreach/anne_frank/index.php

https://www.kkbe.org

https://sc.edu/study/colleges_schools/education/partnerships_outreach/anne_frank/index.php

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The Mysterious Loretto Stairs and Other Unusual Sites in Santa Fe

17 Jun

Santa Fe is a city of many diverging elements coming together to create a unique city. The art of the Navajo, Apache, and Pueblo people; and the multitude of art galleries and jewelry stores; the churches and religious sites; the unusual round State Capitol building; and the original adobe buildings; the restaurants; the museums, all combine together to give the visitor and the residents a place that stimulates the senses. 

My husband, who is enamored with AI, asked what would be the best 2.5 hour walking tour of Santa Fe. Its description of four places became our morning walking tour. None of these places take long to visit, unless you want to stay longer.  For this ‘tour’ you will be walking up hill on the Old Santa Fe Trail Road, which is right by the La Fonda Hotel downtown. Finally, you can always take your water bottle in with you.

The Loretto Chapel and its mysterious, mystical stairs is worth the visit.  The chapel was once part of a girl’s school and was designed by the same architect as the Santa Fe Cathedral. The mystery of the stairs starts when the architect died before the staircase was built, the nuns were distraught and prayed for help.  An unknown carpenter appeared, built the stairs and disappeared. 

The staircase is a lovely gem to see, whether you believe that it was built by St. Joseph or not.  How it suspends and curves upwards without support is astonishing.  And it is beautifully carved.  But besides the beauty of the stairs, the chapel itself is lovely.  While you sit and visit, you listen to the story of the stairs.  This is no longer a consecrated church, so religious services are not held.

Two blocks further up the hill on Old Santa Fe is East De Vargas Street.  Turn left to walk through a narrow road to the Oldest House in Santa Fe, but I recommended you first go across the street to the San Miguel Mission Church. 

The San Miguel Mission Church sits on a hill on the hill. Probably a good place for watching what is going on around you. It is the oldest Catholic Church in the United States. People can attend mass on the first Sunday of each month.

It is not a big building, but it has a big history.  First built soon after the Spanish came into Santa Fe in 1598, the mission church was used by the Franciscan priests who came to New Mexico with the Spanish to convert the indigenous peoples and serve the Spanish settlers.  It was partially destroyed in 1680 when the pueblo peoples revolted against the Spanish and the church for the cruel treatment.  They burned the roof, destroyed some of the walls, and killed the priests.  The church was rebuilt when the Spanish returned about 30 years later. 

When you walk in there are two artifacts to notice. The first you see on the — the Victory bell that was brought from Spain. The bell had a long history that included helping Spain expel the Moors.  The story is whenever the bell rang, the Spanish had a victory.  The bell came to New Mexico for a Spanish family. But after the Pueblo Revolt, when the Mission was rebuilt the bell was put in the church belfry.  The second item hangs on the wall to the left. It is a 300-year-old replica of the painting of Our Lady of Guadalupe from the Mexico City Basilica.

The church itself is small and simple. The wooden ceiling is wonderful.  After you finish viewing the chapel and listening to the talk by the docent, please go down the stairs to the second room.  There are photographs that show the building from different angles, as well as two photos of the oldest house before it was restored.

Now you can go out of the chapel and down the steps to the side which lead to De Vargas Street.  Immediately across the street is the oldest house. The house, from the 1600s, is built on the remains of a home in what once was part of a pueblo It is attached to a gift store.

 You go into the store and to your left to enter the house.  There are just two rooms to see and they are tiny. But as all sites, it is worth seeing to understand how people lived.  If you are a bit claustrophobic, try to go when there is a not a group going in.  It gets tight.

When you are done at the oldest house, return to Old Santa Fe Trail Street and continue past the San Miguel Mission. Turn right on Paseo De Peralta.  You will soon come to the State Capitol building.  It is unusual in that it is both round and NOT built in the pueblo style.  (Which is what I thought it would be!). When we went there was an art show on display. But even if it is not there, it is worth going in to see the rotunda and the lovely architecture.  You basically walk in the main door and go out the back door getting you back to E. De Vargas street.

After this part of our tour, we went for lunch!  There are many, many excellent restaurants in the Plaza area.  So go and enjoy.  Also while walking around you will see many galleries and statues/art on the sidewalks.  Take time to enjoy them.  You might want to take a break and rest after lunch or do this next part in the morning.

Martyr’s Cross and Marcy Fortress.  There is a way to drive to get closer to this site, but my husband and I did not have a car, so we walked.  It is located on Paseo de Peralta, the same street as the capitol building, but in the other direction. Depending on where you are staying will determine how you go.  But since we stayed near the Cathedral, we took Palace Avenue to Paseo de Peralta and turned left. You can see the cross on the hill and just head in that direction!

The entrance to walk up is marked by an adobe sign and arch.  You are going up hill.  There are rest areas where you can sit at the ends of each switch back.  And take water!! It is dry in Santa Fe.  The walk up was fun. Along the way are plaques that tell the history of Santa Fe, and as you go higher the views get better and better.

The Cross of the Martyrs honors the 21 priests and 380 Spanish settlers who were killed during the Pueblo Revolt  in 1680. The first cross was erected in 1920s. Over time it was replaced twice, the last time  in 1977 with a metal cross.

To be honest, we did not continue up the path to see the ruins of Fort Marcy.  It had been a long day, and we still had to walk about a mile or so back to our hotel.  But you can easily get to it. But that path is not paved.

However, we did get some fantastic photos of Santa Fe from the top.

Santa Fe’s  Multitude of Museums
The Great Rio Grande River Gorge and Taos Pueblo
Learning about the Crypto-Jews/Conversos in Santa Fe

https://www.lorettochapel.com/

https://www.sanmiguelchapelsantafe.org/

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